The Landscape Connection Blog

Watering Done Right

Wed, 29 Apr 2026 19:21:27 GMT

The most common reason plants struggle—and how to fix it

If plants are struggling, the issue is often not the plant itself—it’s how they’re being watered.

This is where most things go wrong.

Too much. Not enough. Too often. Not deep enough.

Getting watering right is one of the most important parts of keeping plants healthy—and one of the easiest ways to turn things around.

Deep Watering vs. Quick Surface Watering

A quick sprinkle on the surface might make the soil look wet, but it doesn’t do much for the plant.

Roots grow where the water is. If water never moves past the top layer, roots stay shallow—and shallow roots lead to weak, stressed plants.

Water needs to move slowly and deeply into the soil to reach the root zone. Fast watering often runs off or evaporates before it can do any good.

Slower, deeper watering is what builds stronger plants that can handle heat and dry conditions later on.

How Often Should You Water?

There isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer.

Watering depends on:

Weather conditions
Soil type
Sun exposure
Wind
Whether plants are in containers or in the ground

Hot, sunny, and windy conditions dry things out quickly. Shade, cooler temps, and rainfall slow that process down.

A good general guideline is aiming for about one to two inches of water per week. That may come from rain, irrigation, or both.

Instead of watering on a strict schedule, check the soil. If it’s dry below the surface, it’s time to water.

Morning vs. Evening Watering

Morning is the best time to water when possible.

It allows plants to take in moisture before the heat of the day and gives foliage time to dry, which helps reduce disease.

Evening watering can work, but consistently wet leaves overnight can create problems over time.

Overwatering vs. Underwatering

These two issues often look the same, which leads to confusion.

Signs of underwatering:

Dry, crumbly soil
Drooping plants that recover after watering
Slower growth

Signs of overwatering:

Yellowing leaves
Soft or mushy stems
Soil that stays consistently wet

When something looks off, the first step is always to check the soil—not just the surface.

Containers vs. In-Ground Plants

Not all plants need to be watered the same way.

Containers:

Dry out quickly
Often need daily watering in warm weather
Require more frequent attention

In-ground plants:

Hold moisture longer
Benefit from deeper, less frequent watering
Develop stronger root systems over time

Treating containers and landscape plants the same is one of the fastest ways to run into problems.

Newly Planted vs. Established Plants

New plants need more consistent watering.

Their root systems are small and haven’t spread into the surrounding soil yet. That means they dry out faster and need regular moisture to get established.

Once plants are established, they become much more resilient and can go longer between watering.

That first season matters.

Watering the Right Way Matters More Than You Think

Watering isn’t just about how much—it’s how and when.

Water needs to move slowly and deeply into the soil so it actually reaches the roots. Fast, shallow watering often runs off or evaporates before plants ever benefit from it.

A good rule of thumb is aiming for about one to two inches of water per week, depending on weather and conditions.

There’s also a rhythm to it. Watering isn’t random—it should adjust based on sun, soil, wind, and what’s planted. The more consistent the approach, the better plants perform.

If you want to see exactly what that looks like in real time—how to gauge moisture, how long to water, and what to watch for—this video walks through it step by step: Best Watering Practices for Your Garden

If plants aren’t performing the way they should, watering is usually the first place to look.

Stop in and walk through the greenhouse to see what healthy, well-cared-for plants look like—and get guidance on how to keep yours growing strong all season.

Come grow with us.

The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Planting in May the Right Way

Wed, 29 Apr 2026 17:35:44 GMT

Zone 5 timing tips that prevent costly mistakes and set your garden up for success

May is when everything feels ready.

The weather warms up, garden centers are full, and it’s tempting to plant everything all at once. But this is also where the most common mistakes happen.

Planting at the right time—and in the right way—makes the difference between a garden that takes off and one that struggles all season.

Don’t Rush Warm-Season Plants

This is the biggest one.

Tomatoes, peppers, annuals, and other warm-season plants don’t respond to the calendar—they respond to soil temperature and nighttime lows.

If the soil is still cold or nights are dipping too low, these plants stall. Growth slows, roots struggle to establish, and overall performance suffers.

Even if the days feel warm, patience here pays off.

Know What Can Go In Now—and What Needs to Wait

Not everything has the same timeline.

Cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach, and certain perennials can handle early May conditions and often perform better because of it.

Warm-season plants need more consistent warmth—both in the soil and overnight.

Planting everything at once might feel efficient, but separating what can go in now from what needs to wait leads to stronger, healthier plants across the board.

Spacing Matters More Than It Looks

Everything looks small when it goes in the ground.

That’s where spacing mistakes happen.

Plants need room to grow into their mature size—not the size they are today. Crowding leads to poor airflow, increased disease pressure, and competition for nutrients and water.

Giving plants proper space at planting saves time and problems later in the season.

Water Deeply Right From the Start

After planting, watering needs to go beyond the surface.

A quick sprinkle isn’t enough to establish roots. Water needs to reach down into the soil where roots will grow.

Deep watering encourages roots to move downward, creating stronger, more stable plants that can handle heat and dry conditions later on.

Mulch Right Away

Mulch is often treated as an afterthought—but it shouldn’t be.

Applying mulch immediately after planting helps:

Retain soil moisture
Regulate soil temperature
Reduce weed growth

It also protects the investment just made in plants by creating a more stable growing environment.

Watch the Night Temperatures

In Zone 5, nights can still be unpredictable in May.

Even when daytime temperatures are comfortable, cooler nights can stress newly planted warm-season crops.

Keeping an eye on the forecast—and being ready to wait or protect plants if needed—prevents setbacks that can take weeks to recover from.

The Bottom Line

May is a critical window.

Getting planting right now—timing, spacing, watering, and protection—sets the tone for the entire growing season.

Rushing leads to stress. Proper planting leads to strong growth, better performance, and fewer problems later.

If there are questions about what can go in now, what should wait, or how to space and care for specific plants, stop in and take a walk through the greenhouse. The right plants—and the right timing—make all the difference.

Come connect with us.

The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Flower Containers That Last All Season

Wed, 29 Apr 2026 17:10:51 GMT

A simple, proven method for building pots that stay full, healthy, and blooming from May through fall

If you’ve ever planted a container in May that looked amazing… and then faded out halfway through summer, you’re not alone.

The difference between a pot that struggles and one that thrives all season usually comes down to a few simple decisions made right at the start.

This is what actually works.

Start With Drainage. No Exceptions.

Before you even think about plants, check your pot.

If it doesn’t have drainage holes, it’s going to fail.

Most plants need water to move through the soil and off the roots. Sitting water leads to root rot, stress, and decline. Whether it’s plastic, terracotta, or ceramic—it has to drain.

Use the Right Soil (Not Garden Soil)

This is one of the biggest mistakes people make.

Garden soil is too heavy for containers. It compacts, holds too much water, and doesn’t allow roots to breathe.

What you want is a potting mix that’s:

Light and airy
Holds moisture but drains well
Strong enough to anchor plants

If your soil feels dense or heavy, you can lighten it with perlite or peat moss to improve airflow and drainage.

Feed at Planting—and Keep Feeding

If you want your containers to last all season, they need consistent nutrition.

Start with a slow-release fertilizer at planting. This gives your plants an initial boost right where the roots are forming.

After that, switch to a water-soluble fertilizer every 1–2 weeks.

Plants will “use that up” quickly as they grow and bloom—so if you don’t keep feeding them, they’ll fade out early.

Choose Plants That Work Together

You can build a beautiful container two different ways:

Option 1: The classic design method

Thriller: height and focal point
Filler: body and fullness
Spiller: movement and trailing

Option 2: The practical method

Group plants with similar sun and water needs

Both approaches work. What doesn’t work is mixing plants that need completely different conditions.

Water the Right Way

Most container problems come back to watering.

Containers dry out fast—especially once summer heat sets in.

What works:

Water thoroughly, not just a quick surface sprinkle
Let water soak all the way through the pot
Check daily in warm weather

When you first plant, take your time soaking the soil. It may take multiple passes to fully saturate dry potting mix, but that initial deep watering helps regulate moisture moving forward.

Stay Consistent

This is where most people fall off.

Containers need:

Regular watering
Ongoing feeding
Occasional check-ins

The plants you choose—especially flowering annuals—are working hard all season. The more they grow and bloom, the more support they need.

Skip the maintenance, and they’ll “poop out,” as Michelle says. Stay consistent, and they’ll keep going strong.

Want to See It Step-by-Step?

If you want to actually watch this come together—including plant combinations, layout, and real-time planting—Michelle walks through it in this video: Part Shade Container Gardening Made Easy

And if you’d rather learn hands-on, we offer in-person classes where we guide you through building your own containers from start to finish. Check our Calendar of Events regularly for new seasonal classes.

The Bottom Line

There’s no guesswork here.

If your container has:

Proper drainage
Quality potting soil
The right plant combinations
Consistent water and feeding

…it’s going to perform.

Not just for a few weeks—but all season long.

If you want help choosing plants, building combinations, or just getting started, come spend some time with us.

The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
815-874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Good Lawn Care Practices

Fri, 03 Apr 2026 14:34:56 GMT

How to Build a Healthier Lawn Without Fighting Nature

If there’s one thing we see every spring, it’s this:

People trying to “fix” their lawn all at once.

Fertilize it. Weed it. Patch it. Push it.

And while some of that has its place… a really good lawn doesn’t come from forcing it.

It comes from working with it.

Especially if you’re starting to think a little more about sustainability, pollinators, and how everything in your yard connects — like we are with the Eco Garden this year.

�� Start With What You Have

Before you add anything, take a look.

Where is your lawn thin?

Where is it thriving?

Where does water sit… or run off?

Your lawn tells you a lot if you pay attention.

And often, the problem isn’t what you think it is.

�� Build Better Soil First

Everything starts with soil.

Healthy soil holds moisture better.

Supports stronger root systems.

And naturally crowds out weeds over time.

Instead of just feeding the grass, think about feeding the soil.

Adding compost, organic matter, or using slower-release fertilizers can make a bigger long-term impact than quick fixes.

�� Mow Smarter, Not Shorter

One of the biggest mistakes we see?

Cutting grass too short.

Taller grass:

• Shades out weeds

• Holds moisture longer

• Develops deeper roots

Aim to keep your lawn a little higher than you think. It makes a noticeable difference, especially heading into summer.

�� Water Less Often — But Better

Frequent, shallow watering trains your lawn to stay weak.

Instead, water deeply and less often.

This encourages roots to grow down into the soil, making your lawn more drought-tolerant and resilient.

And honestly — it saves you time too.

If you want to go deeper into how to water effectively (especially as we head into summer heat), we’ve broken that down in more detail here: �� Watering Wisely

�� Rethink “Perfect”

This is where things are shifting.

A perfectly uniform, weed-free lawn isn’t always the healthiest option — for your yard or for the environment.

Clover, violets, and other low-growing plants:

• Support pollinators

• Improve soil health

• Add diversity

That doesn’t mean letting everything go.

It means being intentional about what you’re encouraging.

�� Small Changes, Big Impact

You don’t have to overhaul your entire lawn this year.

Start with a few simple shifts:

• Raise your mower height

• Improve your soil

• Water more intentionally

• Be selective with treatments

Over time, your lawn becomes easier to maintain — not harder.

�� Keep It Simple

A good lawn isn’t about doing more.

It’s about doing the right things, consistently.

And maybe letting go of the idea that it has to look like a golf course to be successful.

Because when your lawn is healthy, balanced, and working with the rest of your landscape…

It becomes something better than perfect.

If you’re looking for fertilizer, seed, soil amendments, or just want help figuring out what your lawn actually needs, we’re here to help you think it through.

Come connect with us ��

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Growing Asparagus

Fri, 03 Apr 2026 14:20:55 GMT

A Long-Term Garden Investment That Pays You Back Every Spring

Asparagus is one of those plants you don’t grow for this year.

You grow it for the next 10… 15… even 20 years.

And once it’s established, it becomes one of the easiest, most reliable things in your garden — showing up every spring like clockwork, ready to harvest.

But getting there takes a little patience.

�� Why Grow Asparagus?

If you’ve ever thought about planting something once and enjoying it for years, this is it.

Asparagus is a perennial crop, which means it comes back every year without replanting.

Once established, it’s:

• Low maintenance

• Productive for years

• One of the earliest harvests in spring

It’s one of those crops that starts paying you back before most of your garden is even planted.

�� Starting Asparagus — Crowns vs Seeds

Most people start with crowns, and for good reason.

Crowns are one-year-old root systems that give you a huge head start.

You can grow asparagus from seed… but it adds an extra year (or more) before you’re harvesting.

If you’re planting this spring, crowns are the way to go.

�� When to Plant in Zone 5

Early spring is your window.

As soon as the soil is workable — similar timing to onions — you can plant asparagus crowns.

Cool soil helps them get established before summer stress hits.

�� How to Plant Asparagus

This is where asparagus is a little different.

You’re not just planting for this year — you’re building a bed for the long haul.

Dig a trench about 6–8 inches deep.

Lay the crowns out, spreading the roots gently.

Cover them lightly at first, then gradually fill in the trench as they grow.

Give them space — about 12–18 inches between plants — because they will fill in over time.

And choose your location carefully.

Asparagus doesn’t like to be moved.

�� Location Matters More Than Anything

Full sun. Good drainage. And a spot you can leave alone.

That’s the formula.

Because once asparagus is established, you won’t want to disturb it — and you won’t need to.

�� Watering and Feeding

Asparagus isn’t overly demanding, but it does appreciate good soil.

Before planting, work in compost or organic matter.

Once established, an annual feeding in early spring keeps it strong.

Water consistently the first year while it’s getting established — after that, it becomes very self-sufficient.

⏳ The Hard Part — Waiting

This is where most people struggle.

You do not harvest the first year.

And you take it very lightly the second year.

By year three, you’re harvesting regularly.

It’s a slow start… but then it becomes one of the most rewarding crops you grow.

�� Keep It Simple

Plant it once.

Take care of it early.

Then let it do its thing.

Asparagus is one of the best reminders that gardening isn’t always about instant results.

Sometimes it’s about building something that gets better every single year.

And once you have it… you’ll always be glad you planted it.

If you’re thinking about adding asparagus to your garden and want help choosing crowns, prepping your soil, or planning your space, we’re here to help you think it through.

Let’s build this season the right way ��

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Let’s Grow Some Onions!

Fri, 03 Apr 2026 14:02:10 GMT

Tips and Info for Growing Onions in Zone 5

Onions are one of those crops that feel simple… until you try to grow them.

Then you realize — timing matters, spacing matters, and choosing the right type matters.

But once you understand a few key things, onions become one of the most reliable and rewarding crops you can grow.

And in Zone 5, April is your moment to get them started.

�� Why Onions Are Worth Growing

Onions don’t just fill space in the garden — they anchor your entire growing season.

They store well.

They’re used in almost everything you cook.

And they’re one of the first crops you can confidently plant outdoors.

If you’re building a garden that feeds your household, onions are a must.

�� Sets, Seeds, or Transplants — What Should You Use?

This is where most people get stuck.

Onion sets: Small bulbs that are the easiest and most forgiving option. Great for beginners and quick results.
Transplants: Young plants that give you a head start and tend to produce larger onions with better consistency.
Seeds: The most variety, but require the most patience and early indoor timing.

For most gardeners in our area, sets or transplants are the way to go in April.

�� Want to See It in Real Life?

If you’re more of a visual learner, I walk through planting onions step-by-step here — including spacing, feeding, and the difference between sets and transplants.

[ Watch the video here ]

�� When to Plant Onions in Zone 5

As soon as your soil is workable, you’re ready.

Onions are cold-tolerant and actually prefer getting established in cooler temperatures. Waiting too long can reduce bulb size later in the season.

If you can dig the soil, you can plant onions.

�� How to Plant for Success

Onions don’t need complicated care — but they do need consistency.

Plant them in full sun with well-draining soil.
Space them about 4 inches apart if you want full-size bulbs, or closer if you’re okay harvesting smaller onions.
Keep the rows clean and weed-free — onions don’t like competition.
And don’t bury them too deep. Just enough to anchor them.

�� Watering and Feeding

Onions have shallow roots, which means they need steady moisture.

Not soaked. Not dry. Just consistent.

If they go through long dry stretches, bulb development can suffer.

A balanced fertilizer or compost-rich soil will help keep them growing strong early on.

�� A Quick Tip Most People Miss

Day length matters.

In our area, you want long-day onions, which begin forming bulbs as daylight increases.

Planting the right type is just as important as planting at the right time.

�� Keep It Simple

You don’t need a huge garden to grow onions well.

A single row can go a long way.

A small bed can supply your kitchen for months.

And once you grow your own, it’s hard to go back.

There’s something about pulling an onion from the ground that just feels… foundational.

If you need onion sets, transplants, soil, or just want help choosing the right variety, we’re here to help you think it through.

Let’s build this season the right way ��

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

🌱 Gardening in April – Zone 5

Fri, 03 Apr 2026 13:25:13 GMT

What to Plant Now and What to Do Next

April is where things shift.

March was about starting seeds and building momentum indoors.

April is where you start stepping outside and putting that plan into motion.

The ground is waking up. The air is still cool. And this is your window to get ahead before the rush of May hits.

�� What You Can Plant Outdoors Now

These cool-season crops actually prefer the chill and can go right into the ground as soon as your soil is workable:

• Onion sets or transplants

• Lettuce

• Spinach

• Radishes

• Asparagus

• Beets

• Peas

• Carrots

• Potatoes

These crops don’t need warm soil — they need a head start. Planting now means better flavor, better texture, and a longer harvest window before summer heat sets in.

�� What You Can Still Start Indoors

If you didn’t get everything started in March, you’re not behind — you’re right on time for:

• Tomatoes

• Peppers

• Herbs like basil

Just don’t wait too long. April is your last call before these should be transitioning outdoors soon.

�� Early Flowers to Plant or Start

If you’re ready to start adding color, these can handle cooler temps:

• Pansies

• Snapdragons

• Alyssum

• Ranunculus

• Cold-tolerant annuals

These give you that early “spring is here” feeling while everything else is still waking up.

�� What Else Should You Be Doing Right Now

April isn’t just about planting — it’s about setting your entire season up for success.

This is the time for:

• Cleaning out beds and removing winter debris

• Light pruning on perennials and shrubs

• Edging and redefining garden beds

• Adding compost or soil amendments

• Applying pre-emergent to get ahead of weeds

A few hours now saves you weeks of frustration later.

�� Pro Tip for April Success

Don’t rush warm-season planting.

A couple warm days doesn’t mean the soil is ready. Zone 5 still has cold nights and potential frost. Focus on what thrives now, and your garden will reward you later.

�� Keep It Simple

You don’t have to do everything at once.

Pick a few crops. Prep a few beds. Get something in the ground.

April is about progress, not perfection.

One row planted.

One bed cleaned up.

One evening outside longer than you planned.

That’s how the season builds.

And if you’re standing out there thinking, “Where do I even start?” — start small.

We’re here to help you think it through, whether you need plants, soil, seeds, or just a plan.

Let’s build this season the right way ��

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Pre-Sprouting Ranunculus – A Little Work Now, Big Reward Later

Tue, 03 Mar 2026 16:53:05 GMT

How to grow ranunculus successfully in Zone 5 for strong spring blooms

If you want breathtaking spring blooms, ranunculus are worth the effort.

These papery, rose-like flowers look delicate — but they’re surprisingly tough cool-season growers. In Zone 5, though, timing is everything.

Ranunculus grow from corms. When you open the bag, they look like dried little alien claws. Completely lifeless.

They’re not.

With the right prep, they’ll reward you about 90 days later with some of the most beautiful blooms you can grow.

�� Watch the full step-by-step video here: How to Pre-Sprout Ranunculus

Step 1: Soak the Corms

Before anything else, soak the corms in room-temperature water for 3–4 hours.

Refresh the water every hour to keep it aerated and prevent bacteria buildup. Some gardeners gently swirl the water or use a small pump. However you do it, just keep the water fresh.

This rehydrates the corms and wakes them up.

Step 2: Pre-Sprout (Highly Recommended in Zone 5)

While you can plant directly in the ground, pre-sprouting gives you much better control — especially in Northern Illinois where spring temperatures can swing wildly.

Here’s how:

• Use lightly damp potting mix
• Place corms with the “claws” pointing down
• Cover lightly with soil
• Store in a cool, dark place
• Keep soil moist but not soggy

In about 10–14 days, you’ll see roots and small shoots forming.

Pre-sprouting lets you control moisture and temperature before exposing them to unpredictable spring weather.

When to Plant Outside in Zone 5

Timing is critical.

Ranunculus do not like temperatures below 28°.

Ideal conditions:
• Night temps between 30–35°
• Day temps between 40–50°

Before planting outside, harden them off for about a week — gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions for a few hours each day.

Because they’re cool-season annuals, once soil temps hit 80°, they begin to go dormant. That’s why early planting matters.

Where to Plant

Ranunculus need:

• Excellent drainage
• No standing water
• Full to part sun
• Soil amended with compost

In the ground:
Plant 2 inches deep
Space 5–8 inches apart

In containers:
They don’t have deep roots, so shallow bowls work beautifully.

General container rule:
• One corm in an 8-inch pot
• Two in a 10-inch pot
• Three in a 12-inch pot

They pair beautifully with pansies and other cool-season annuals.

After Blooming

In Zone 5, ranunculus are not perennial in the ground. Once foliage yellows and temperatures warm, dig up the corms.

• Let them dry
• Store in a paper bag
• Keep in a cool, dry, dark place
• Label by color

They’ll store about eight months — just in time to start again next year.

And yes… they make baby corms. So you’ll often end up with more than you started with.

Why Try Them?

They’re stunning in:
• Spring containers
• Cut flower arrangements
• Mixed borders with tulips and daffodils
• Special events and centerpieces

They feel fancy. But they’re very doable.

If you’re itching to grow something while it’s still technically winter, this is a great project to start.

And if you’re looking for something specific, need to pre-order plants, or require larger quantities of certain annuals for spring projects or events, call now . Planning ahead ensures we can set aside exactly what you need.

The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Pruning in March – What You Should (and Shouldn’t) Cut in Zone 5

Tue, 03 Mar 2026 16:36:57 GMT

Understanding old wood vs. new wood before you make your first spring cut.

Pruning makes a lot of homeowners nervous.

Will I kill it?
Am I cutting too much?
Is this even the right time?

Here’s the good news: most of the time, pruning incorrectly won’t kill your shrub. You might sacrifice a season of blooms. You might reshape it in a way you didn’t intend. But plants are resilient.

Before you make a single cut, ask yourself one important question:

Why am I pruning this?

If you don’t have a reason, you probably don’t need to do it.

Good Reasons to Prune

To improve stem color, like red twig dogwood
To encourage stronger flowering
To promote a second bloom on reblooming shrubs
To rejuvenate an overgrown plant
To maintain a hedge or topiary shape
To remove dead or diseased wood

If none of those apply, consider leaving it alone. Many shrubs perform beautifully with very little intervention.

Old Wood vs. New Wood – The Most Important Distinction

In Zone 5, March pruning success comes down to understanding how your shrub blooms.

Shrubs That Bloom on Old Wood

These form flower buds on last year’s growth.

Examples:
Lilacs
Forsythia
Weigela
Magnolia
Azalea
Mock orange
Ninebark
Quince
Elderberry
Some spirea

If you prune these in March, you’re likely cutting off this year’s flowers.

The rule of thumb:
Prune old-wood bloomers immediately after they finish flowering.

Generally, the earlier a plant blooms in spring, the more likely it blooms on old wood.

Shrubs That Bloom on New Wood

These flower on growth produced this season.

These are safe to prune in March in Zone 5:

Panicle hydrangeas like Limelight
Smooth hydrangeas like Annabelle
Butterfly bush
Rose of Sharon
Bluebeard
Potentilla
Red twig dogwood
Deutzia
Roses

These benefit from a spring trim. Pruning actually promotes vigorous new growth and stronger blooms.

How Much Should You Cut?

If you’re unsure, follow the one-third rule .

You have two options:

Cut the entire plant back by about one-third across the top.
Remove one-third of the stems selectively by cutting older canes down to the base.

Both methods reduce size without shocking the plant.

When cutting:
• Use sharp bypass pruners
• Make clean, straight cuts
• Cut just above a bud
• Avoid cutting into bare wood unless removing a branch entirely

The larger the bud, the more vigorous the growth above it will be.

Timing Matters in Zone 5

In Northern Illinois, late winter and early March can still surprise us.

Established shrubs usually handle pruning just fine, but it’s wise to avoid pruning right before an extended stretch of extreme cold.

Michelle typically waits until buds are beginning to swell so she can see where new growth will emerge.

What About Evergreens?

Evergreens like boxwood and arborvitae are best pruned after new growth flushes out in spring — not in early March.

And remember:
Dead or diseased wood can be removed anytime.

Sometimes the Best Move Is No Move

Some shrubs perform better with little to no pruning at all.

Oakleaf hydrangeas
Mountain hydrangeas
Rhododendrons
Viburnums
Winterberry holly

If you’re growing viburnum or winterberry for the berries, pruning at the wrong time means you lose them.

Not everything needs to be “fixed.”

Pruning builds confidence. It’s one of those early spring tasks that makes you feel like the season has officially begun.

And even if you make a mistake? It will probably grow back.

If you’d like to see real examples, step-by-step demonstrations, and how to approach specific shrubs here in Northern Illinois, watch the full pruning video here �� When To Prune Shrubs in Winter .

The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

What to Start Indoors in March

Tue, 03 Mar 2026 16:08:37 GMT

Your Zone 5 Seed Guide

March is prime time for starting seeds indoors in Zone 5.

Because our growing season is shorter, starting plants inside gives us a head start you simply can’t make up later.

This is the month where momentum begins.

�� Start These Vegetables Indoors Now

These cool-season crops benefit from an early indoor start:

• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Lettuce
• Kale
• Onions, if you didn’t start them in February
• Parsley and other early herbs

Starting them now means strong transplants ready to go when the soil warms.

�� Toward the End of March

These need slightly warmer timing:

• Tomatoes
• Peppers, if you haven’t already started them

Starting too early can lead to leggy, stressed plants. Timing matters.

�� Flowers to Start Now

These slower growers benefit from an early head start:

• Petunias
• Snapdragons
• Salvia
• Pansies
• Alyssum

Starting these now means fuller plants and earlier blooms once planting season arrives.

�� Pro Tip for Strong Seedlings

Use a seed-starting mix — not potting soil.

Provide bright light immediately after germination.

Keep soil moist but never soggy.

If seedlings get leggy, it’s almost always a light issue — not a watering issue.

�� Keep It Simple

If you’re new to seed starting, don’t overwhelm yourself.

Choose a few varieties you truly love. Build confidence. Learn what works in your space.

Small, intentional steps now make May feel effortless.

A little pruning.
A little soil prep.
A tray of seeds under lights.
A batch of ranunculus waking up in the dark.

This is the quiet work that builds a strong season.

If you need seeds, soil, compost, Proven Winners plants, or want something set aside for spring, call us or stop in. We’re happy to help you think it through.

Let’s build this season the right way.

The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Gardening for Real Life – The Secret to a Successful Season

Tue, 03 Mar 2026 15:06:39 GMT

Designing gardens that work in real weather, real spaces, and real life.

Have you ever looked at a perfect garden online and thought,

Why doesn’t mine look like that?

You’re not alone.

Most of us garden in real life — with real weather, real soil, real time constraints, real budgets, and real limitations.

That’s why the Garden Design for Real Life series exists — not to chase perfection, but to build gardens that actually work.

Here are the six foundations that matter most as we head into spring.

1️⃣ Start With Your Life — Not the Plants

Before you plant a single thing, ask yourself:

How much time do I realistically have?
Do I enjoy pruning and deadheading — or does that feel like maintenance?
Do I want one bed to fuss over and the rest to be easy?

If you only want a weekend garden, don’t design a weekday garden.

Low maintenance gardens aren’t accidents. They’re built with repetition, dependable shrubs and perennials, and fewer “one of everything” choices.

When your garden fits your life, everything gets easier.

�� Part 1: Designing for Real Life

2️⃣ Soil Is the Foundation

This isn’t the glamorous part — but it’s the part that changes everything.

Build the base first.

�� Part 2: Prepping Your Garden Bed

3️⃣ Right Plant, Right Place Is More Than Sun and Shade

Placement isn’t just light.

It’s wind exposure.

It’s winter damage.

It’s drainage patterns.

It’s microclimates near brick and foundations.

If a plant struggles, the answer usually isn’t more fertilizer. It’s location.

Sometimes moving something five feet makes all the difference.

�� Part 3: Right Plant, Right Place

4️⃣ The Mistakes That Sneak Up On You

The most expensive garden mistakes aren’t dramatic. They’re slow.

Shrubs planted too close to the house.

Volcano mulch.

Buried root flares.

Ignoring drainage toward structures.

Landscape fabric used long term.

Weeds allowed to go to seed.

Winter and early spring are the perfect time to catch these before growth hides them.

�� Part 4: Garden Mistakes That Sneak Up On You

5️⃣ Spacing Is the Secret Weapon

Spacing quietly controls everything:

Give plants room to become what they were meant to be.

�� Part 5: Why Spacing Is The Secret Weapon

6️⃣ Shape, Texture, and Color Create Cohesion

If you’ve ever planted something and thought,

It just feels off.

This is why.

Gardens feel intentional when plants relate to each other.

Contrast creates interest.

Repetition creates rhythm.

Clustering creates impact.

Think upright next to round.

Fine texture next to bold leaves.

Two or three colors repeated instead of a scattered rainbow.

Design isn’t about complexity. It’s about consistency.

�� Part 6: Color, Texture, and Shape

�� The Real Secret

Intentionality.

When you improve your soil, place plants thoughtfully, space them properly, and design with cohesion in mind, the garden stops fighting you.

It becomes easier.

Healthier.

More enjoyable.

Spring planting is exciting.

But smart planning is what makes it successful.

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Helping Birds Through the Rest of Winter

Thu, 29 Jan 2026 18:05:29 GMT

Homemade suet recipes that provide energy when birds need it most

Late winter can be one of the most challenging times for birds. Natural food sources are scarce, temperatures fluctuate, and birds are using a lot of energy just to stay warm. Providing food now can make a real difference as we move closer to spring.

High-energy foods like suet help birds maintain body heat and strength during this stretch of winter. Making your own suet is simple, cost-effective, and allows you to tailor ingredients to the birds visiting your yard.

Bark Butter

Bark butter is easy to make and can be spread directly onto tree trunks or feeding stations. Birds love it, and it’s especially helpful during very cold weather.

Ingredients

1 cup lard

1 cup peanut butter

1 cup cornmeal

½ cup flour

1 cup oats

½ cup bird seed

¾ cup water

1 cup raisins

Directions

Melt the lard and peanut butter together.

Add all remaining ingredients and mix well.

Store in the refrigerator for 5–7 days.

When ready to use, warm in the microwave for 1–2 minutes until spreadable, similar to cake frosting.

No-Melt Suet

This recipe is ideal for hanging feeders and warmer winter days when traditional suet can soften too quickly.

Ingredients

1 cup lard

1 cup peanut butter

2½ cups cornmeal

2½ cups oats

Start with 2 cups bird seed and add as needed

Directions

Melt the lard and peanut butter together.

Add cornmeal, oats, and bird seed.

Mix until the texture resembles a rice krispy treat.

Press into a 13 x 9 pan lined with wax paper or parchment paper.

Freeze for several hours or overnight.

Remove from pan, cut into desired sizes, and wrap individually.

Storage

Freeze for 3–6 months until ready to use.

Suet Wreath

Suet wreaths are both functional and fun, making them a great project for families.

Ingredients

1 cup lard

1 cup peanut butter

3 cups cornmeal

½ cup flour

4 cups bird seed

1 packet unflavored Knox gelatin, dissolved in ½ cup warm water

Directions

Melt the lard and peanut butter together.

Add remaining ingredients and mix well.

The mixture should hold together when squeezed in your hand.

Shape into a wreath or press into a mold as desired.

If adding fruit, use dehydrated fruit only.

Michelle demonstrates these suet recipes step by step in her video, including tips for shaping, storing, and feeding safely through winter: DIY – How to Make Suet to Feed the Birds

Helping birds through the rest of winter is a simple way to care for the wildlife around us and stay connected to the garden, even in the coldest months. If you need bird seed, feeders, or suet supplies — or if you’d like help choosing what’s best for the birds you’re seeing — stop in and see us. We’re always happy to help.

The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

From Garden to Kitchen

Thu, 29 Jan 2026 16:47:55 GMT

Using last year’s herbs before the new growing season begins

By February, many of us have jars of herbs tucked away from last summer’s garden. This is the perfect time to pull them out, take stock, and use them intentionally before the new growing season begins. Herbs are meant to be used — and when they’ve been stored properly, even dried herbs can still bring wonderful flavor into your kitchen.

Late winter is also a quieter season in the kitchen, which makes it a great time to slow down and turn what you grew into simple, everyday staples you’ll actually reach for.

How to Tell If Dried Herbs Are Still Good

Before using any dried herbs, take a moment to check them.

Smell: Crush a small amount between your fingers. If the aroma is faint or dusty, the flavor will be weak.
Color: Herbs that have held their color tend to hold their flavor. Very dull or gray herbs are usually past their prime.
Texture: Dried herbs should crumble easily, but shouldn’t feel stale or powdery.

If your herbs still smell good, they’re worth using — especially for infusions, where time helps draw out flavor.

Best Ways to Use Up Herbs

Late winter is ideal for infusions. They’re simple, practical, and turn small amounts of herbs into kitchen staples that feel useful instead of forgotten.

Before starting any infusion:

Make sure all jars are clean and sanitized
Running jars through the dishwasher works well

Herb-Infused Vinegars

Herb-infused vinegars are one of the easiest and most reliable ways to use both dried and fresh herbs. They store well, develop flavor over time, and are incredibly versatile.

Red Wine Vinegar with Dried Italian Herbs

This is one of Michelle’s go-to recipes and a great way to use up dried herb blends.

Ingredients

Dried Italian herb blend

Red wine vinegar

How to Use It

Use straight as a sub sandwich sauce

Mix with mayonnaise for an easy sandwich spread

Herb-Infused White Wine Vinegar

Ingredients

Dried basil, oregano, or thyme

White wine vinegar

How to Use It

Pasta salads

Simple vinaigrettes

Drizzled over roasted vegetables

Common vinegars used for infusions include rice vinegar, sherry vinegar, champagne vinegar, and white or red wine vinegar.

Herb-Infused Oils – Crock Pot Method

This is the method Michelle uses most often because it’s simple, gentle, and very forgiving. The goal is low, steady heat that draws flavor out of the herbs without cooking or scorching them.

Important Notes Before You Start

Use dried herbs only for oils stored at room temperature
Fresh herbs may be frozen in oil but should not be stored at room temperature
Always use clean, sanitized jars and tools

Choosing the Right Oil

Avocado oil: Best for roasting vegetables and cooking over 320 degrees due to its higher smoke point
Olive oil: Best for lower-heat cooking and finishing dishes

Storage

Room temperature, cool dark place: 4–6 months
Frozen fresh herbs in oil: up to 4–6 months

This simple herb oil is perfect for roasting vegetables, tossing with potatoes, or drizzling over finished dishes.

Compound Butters

Compound butters are one of the easiest and most useful ways to preserve herbs. A small amount of herbs goes a long way, and having butter ready in the fridge or freezer makes everyday meals feel special without extra effort.

Basic Compound Butter Method

Start with softened, unsalted butter
Finely chop herbs so they mix evenly
Add herbs, seasonings, and extras
Mix until well combined
Shape into a log with parchment paper or store in a covered container
Chill until firm, then slice as needed

Storage

Refrigerator: up to 2 weeks
Freezer: 60–90 days

Cranberry Herb Butter

½ pound unsalted butter, softened

½ tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

½ teaspoon chopped fresh basil

⅛ teaspoon sea salt

¼ teaspoon orange peel

1 heaping tablespoon dried cranberries, chopped

Best Uses

Toast, roasted vegetables, chicken, and holiday breads

Everything Herb Butter

1 pound unsalted butter, softened

1 cup total fresh chopped herbs

Basil, tarragon, thyme, chives

Parsley, oregano, rosemary

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon pepper

Best Uses

Steaks, grilled vegetables, pasta, and crusty bread

If you enjoy learning by watching, Michelle walks through these exact oil, butter, and vinegar methods step by step in her video. It’s a relaxed, practical look at turning garden herbs into things you’ll actually use. Here’s what to do with all those yummy herbs – Infusing Oils, Butters, and Vinegars

Using up your herbs now clears the way for what’s ahead and keeps your garden connected to your kitchen year-round. If you need jars, supplies, or a little inspiration, swing by and see us. We’re always happy to help you make the most of what you grow.

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Seed Starting How-To for Zone 5

Thu, 29 Jan 2026 15:34:11 GMT

A simple DIY guide to starting strong seedlings indoors in February

February is the month when gardeners begin preparing — thoughtfully and intentionally — for the growing season ahead. While winter is still with us, this is the perfect time to start seeds indoors and build a strong foundation for spring.

Starting seeds early allows plants to develop healthy root systems and gives you access to more varieties than you’ll find later in the season. It also spreads the work out, making spring planting more manageable and enjoyable.

Seeds to Start in February (Zone 5)

Vegetables:

Peppers
Onions from seed
Leeks
Celery

Herbs

Lavender
Oregano
Parsley
Rosemary
Thyme

Flowers:

Snapdragons
Petunias
Other slow-growing annuals

These plants benefit from a longer growing period and perform best when started indoors now.

DIY Seed-Starting Basics

Use a quality seed-starting mix
Keep soil evenly moist, not saturated
Provide consistent warmth for germination
Move seedlings under bright light as soon as they emerge
Label everything

If you’re new to seed starting, don’t feel like you need to do everything at once. Start with just a few varieties and use this time to learn what works best in your space — your light, your temperature, your schedule. Confidence comes quickly when you keep it simple.

I walk through my own approach in a short seed-starting how-to video, sharing the same steps I use year after year to grow strong, healthy seedlings. If you like learning by watching, it’s a great place to start: Seed Starting Made Simple: My 7-Step System for Strong Seedlings

And if you’d rather talk it through in person, stop in and see us. Whether you need help choosing what to start now or setting up a simple seed-starting station at home, we’re always happy to help you problem-solve and grow with confidence.

Seed starting is one of the most hopeful parts of the growing season. It’s a reminder that even when it’s still winter outside, growth is already beginning.

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

815-874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Winter Sowing: Let Nature Do the Work

Tue, 30 Dec 2025 20:03:31 GMT

A simple, low-effort way to grow stronger plants from seed

If you love gardening but dislike complicated systems, winter sowing might be exactly what you’ve been looking for.

Winter sowing is the practice of starting seeds outdoors during winter and letting natural temperature cycles trigger germination. Using simple containers like milk jugs or clear bins, seeds experience cold, moisture, and gradual warming—just as they would in nature.

This method works especially well for native plants, perennials, and cold-hardy annuals. Many of these seeds actually need a cold period to sprout, making winter sowing a perfect match.

The process is refreshingly simple. Add drainage holes to a container, fill it with moist potting mix, plant your seeds, label clearly, and place it outside where it will receive rain and snow. No grow lights. No daily attention. No indoor mess.

If you’d like to watch a step-by-step walkthrough, Michelle breaks it down in this Winter Sowing Made Easy , including what to sow now in Zone 5 and why winter sowing works so well.

From a sustainability standpoint, winter sowing uses recycled materials, no electricity, and produces tough seedlings that are already adapted to outdoor conditions. These plants tend to transplant more successfully and require less fuss later.

It’s also a mindset shift. Instead of forcing growth, you work with the seasons and trust that plants know when it’s time.

As we move toward a growing season focused on pollinators, native plants, and resilient gardens, winter sowing is one of the easiest ways to get started—right now.

Not sure what seeds to try or how to begin?
Stop by and ask. We’re happy to walk you through the process, suggest plants that fit your goals, and help you grow smarter—not harder.

Come connect with us.

The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Tiny Worlds, Big Impact

Tue, 30 Dec 2025 19:18:46 GMT

Tips and tricks for planting and maintaining a thriving terrarium

Terrariums are one of my favorite winter projects because they remind us just how connected everything in nature really is—even on a tiny scale.

At their core, terrariums are miniature ecosystems. When planted correctly, they recycle moisture, regulate themselves, and need very little intervention. That makes them not only beautiful, but incredibly sustainable.

Start with the right container . Glass works best because it allows light in and helps maintain consistent humidity. Closed terrariums are ideal for moisture-loving plants, while open terrariums suit plants that prefer drier conditions.

Layering matters. Begin with stones or gravel for drainage, followed by activated charcoal to keep things fresh, then a quality potting mix suited to your plants. This setup helps prevent root rot and keeps your terrarium healthy long-term.

Plant choice is key . Slow-growing plants with similar needs will thrive together. Mosses, ferns, fittonia, and small tropical plants are great options. Avoid fast growers—they’ll outgrow the space quickly and upset the balance.

Water lightly and infrequently . One of the most common mistakes is overwatering. In many cases, a closed terrarium may only need water a few times a year. Watch the glass—light condensation is normal, heavy dripping means it’s too wet.

Terrariums are perfect for small homes, apartments, offices, and anyone who wants greenery without a big footprint. They’re also wonderful gifts because they’re living, long-lasting, and personal.

In a world where sustainability matters more than ever, terrariums show us how balance, patience, and thoughtful choices lead to healthier systems—no matter the size.

Have questions about plant choices or setup?
Bring your ideas, photos, or even your container into the store. We love helping you create terrariums that last and teaching you how to care for them long after you leave.

Come connect with us.

The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

The Quiet Power of Houseplants

Tue, 30 Dec 2025 18:46:20 GMT

How bringing plants indoors supports your health, your home, and the planet

January can feel heavy. The days are short, the garden is frozen, and everything outside looks a little lifeless. That’s where houseplants quietly step in and do their thing.

Houseplants bring life back into our spaces when the outdoor garden is resting. They soften rooms, add warmth, and remind us that growing doesn’t stop just because it’s winter. Even better, they do more than just look good.

Plants help improve indoor air quality by absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen. Some also help filter common indoor pollutants. While they’re not a replacement for fresh air or good ventilation, they absolutely contribute to a healthier indoor environment.

Houseplants aren’t just décor. They’re living companions that support our homes, our health, and our connection to the natural world—especially during the quiet months.

Want help choosing the right plant for your space?

Stop by and tell us about your light, lifestyle, and goals. We’re always happy to answer questions, troubleshoot struggling plants, and help you grow with confidence.

Come connect with us.

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Beat the Winter Blues: How to Plant and Grow an Amaryllis Indoors

Wed, 03 Dec 2025 16:39:39 GMT

Bring color, life, and joy to your home all winter long with this easy bulb

There’s something magical about watching an amaryllis grow during the quiet stretch of winter. With tall, dramatic blooms and lush green foliage, it’s one of the easiest ways to brighten even the grayest Midwest days.

To get started, choose a pot that’s only slightly larger than the bulb—amaryllis actually prefer to be snug. Plant it so the top third of the bulb remains above the soil line, then give it a gentle drink of water. From there, place your pot in a warm, bright location , such as a sunny windowsill or kitchen counter.

Go easy on the watering at first. Too much moisture before the bulb wakes up can slow growth. Once the stalk begins to stretch upward, rotate the pot a quarter turn every few days to help it grow straight and balanced.

Within weeks, you’ll be rewarded with big, bold blooms that feel like a celebration during the coldest part of the season. Amaryllis are low-maintenance, uplifting, and the perfect indoor gardening project to carry you through winter.

Want to see the whole process in action?

Watch the step-by-step how-to video here:

�� How to Grow & Care for Amaryllis

Come Connect With Us

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Indoor Poinsettia Care: How to Keep Your Holiday Plants Bright and Beautiful

Wed, 03 Dec 2025 16:30:08 GMT

Simple, reliable tips to keep your poinsettias thriving all season long

Poinsettias may be the official flower of the holidays, but keeping them vibrant all season long comes down to just a few key steps. These cheerful plants thrive in bright, indirect light and appreciate consistent warmth. Avoid chilly windowsills, drafty doors, and heat vents that can dry the plant out or shock it with sudden temperature swings.

Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and be sure to empty excess water from the saucer so the roots never sit in soggy soil. Overwatering is the most common reason poinsettias decline indoors, followed closely by cold drafts. If yours starts to yellow or drop leaves prematurely, it’s usually a sign that it’s either too wet or too cold. With a small adjustment to its environment, it should perk back up quickly.

With a little attention, these festive favorites will reward you with rich color and fresh, healthy foliage straight through Christmas and well into the New Year. They’re a simple way to infuse your home with holiday cheer—and with proper care, they’ll last longer than you might expect.

Come Connect With Us

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Tuck Them In: Protecting Plants Before Winter Hits

Wed, 29 Oct 2025 16:32:39 GMT

Give your garden the care it deserves before the cold sets in

When temperatures start to dip, it’s time to think about tucking your garden in for a long winter’s rest. A little care now goes a long way in keeping your plants safe through the freeze-and-thaw cycles ahead. In Zone 5, where winters can swing from mild to downright brutal, protection is all about insulation and timing.

Start by watering deeply before the ground freezes . Moist soil holds heat better than dry soil, giving roots an extra buffer against the cold. Perennials that were recently planted or divided will especially appreciate that last good drink before winter sets in.

Next, focus on mulching . Once the ground has frozen, add a 2–4 inch layer of shredded leaves, straw, or bark mulch around the base of your plants. It’s like a cozy blanket that helps regulate soil temperature and keeps roots from heaving during freeze-thaw cycles. Avoid piling mulch directly against stems — leave a little breathing room to prevent rot.

For shrubs and young trees , consider wrapping them in burlap or using plant protectors. Harsh winter winds and bright sun can cause damage even when the temperatures stay below freezing. Burlap acts as a windbreak and shields tender foliage without trapping moisture.

Don’t forget your container plants . Move pots into sheltered areas like a garage, shed, or near your home’s foundation. If they’re too large to move, group them together and wrap the containers in burlap or bubble wrap to protect the roots.

And while it might be tempting to tidy everything up, resist the urge to cut back every stem. Leaving some dried grasses and seed heads provides winter texture — and a snack for birds — while adding natural beauty to your snow-covered garden.

Taking these small steps now helps ensure that, come spring, your plants wake up strong, healthy, and ready to grow. So grab a warm coat, one last mug of cider, and tuck those plants in — they’ve earned their rest, and so have you.

�� Come Connect With Us

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

One More Good Rake: Fall Garden Cleanup With Pollinators in Mind

Wed, 29 Oct 2025 15:50:14 GMT

Why “less cleanup” is better for your garden — and your back

It’s tempting to clear every leaf and stem once the first frost hits — but when we do, we might be tidying away some of our best garden helpers. As Michelle likes to say, “The garden still has work to do — even when it’s resting.”

Here’s how you can give your garden a proper send-off for the season while keeping pollinators, birds, and beneficial insects safe and sound.

�� Leave Some Leaves

You don’t have to rake every inch of the yard! Pile some leaves under shrubs or in the corners of your landscape. Those layers act as natural insulation — a cozy winter blanket for overwintering butterflies, native bees, and even frogs.

Butterflies often spend the winter tucked in chrysalises attached to stems. Native bees may hibernate inside hollow stalks, and seed-eating birds love scavenging among coneflowers and milkweed pods.

The only place to be a little tidier? Your lawn. Keep leaves from covering more than 20% of your turf so the grass can breathe and avoid mold or rodent damage. Mulch them with your mower instead — your soil will thank you come spring.

�� Don’t Cut Everything Back

Those dried stems and seed heads add more than winter texture — they’re life support for wildlife. Coneflowers, rudbeckia, sedums, and grasses feed birds and shelter pollinators.

Instead of cutting everything down, try leaving some plants standing until early spring. You can always designate a “neat” section and a “wild” one. If you do trim, focus on plants that harbor pests, like irises or peonies, and dispose of any diseased material.

�� Compost What You Can

If you haven’t started composting, fall is the perfect time. Gather leaves, stems, and vegetable remnants to make your own nutrient-rich soil amendment for next year. Alternate “brown” (leaves, straw) and “green” (grass clippings, kitchen scraps) layers to get things cooking.

�� Unhook and Store Hoses

Before the hard freezes arrive, take a few minutes to unhook your garden hoses, drain any remaining water, and coil them neatly in a shed or garage. Leaving them attached can lead to cracked fittings or frozen outdoor spigots — a small task now that saves big headaches later. While you’re at it, turn off outdoor faucets and cover them for extra protection.

�� Help the Birds and Bugs

Create small brush piles from your fall pruning — you’ll be amazed how quickly birds, toads, and small mammals find them. Keep your feeders full, clean your birdbaths, and add a heated water source if possible.

Native shrubs like winterberry and viburnum not only brighten the landscape but also offer berries and shelter through the coldest months.

�� Leave the Lawn Long

Before putting the mower away, give your lawn one final cut — but not too short. Leaving grass a little longer protects beneficial insects that burrow into the soil and cushions the turf from winter damage.

If you mulch leaves into your grass, it’ll feed the soil and reduce weed germination in spring. A neat edge and gentle mow can make your “messy” garden look beautifully intentional.

By softening your cleanup routine, you’re giving your garden a head start on next year’s health — and a helping hand to the creatures that keep it thriving.

So grab that rake, make a few tidy piles, then pour yourself a mug of something warm. The pollinators will take it from here.

�� Come Connect With Us

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Perennial Seeds to Plant in October

Thu, 25 Sep 2025 14:36:40 GMT

Take Advantage of Winter’s Natural Stratification

October is the perfect time to sow perennial flower seeds in our Zone 5 gardens. While annuals finish up for the season, perennials take advantage of fall’s natural conditions. By planting now, you let winter’s freeze–thaw cycles provide the cold stratification these seeds need to germinate. They’ll lie dormant through the cold months, sprout in spring, and establish strong roots for years of blooms.

Why plant perennials in the fall here in Zone 5?

Natural cold stratification: Winter does the work for you, breaking seed dormancy.
Early root development: Fall-sown seeds root quietly under the soil, ready to burst in spring.
Faster maturity: These plants often bloom a year earlier than those planted in spring.
Low effort: No need to refrigerate seeds or start them under lights indoors—just sow and let nature handle the process.

Here are some great perennial choices for fall sowing in Northern Illinois, with notes on why they deserve a spot in your garden:

Coneflower (Echinacea): Easy to grow, attracts pollinators, and adds bold color.
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia): Bright, cheerful flowers that thrive in sunny spots.
Columbine (Aquilegia): Delicate, nodding blooms that prefer cooler conditions and partial shade.
Lupine (Lupinus): Striking flower spikes that shine in sandy or well-drained soil.
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia): A tough, heat- and drought-tolerant choice with nonstop color.
Yarrow (Achillea): Feathery foliage and long-lasting blooms, perfect for cut flowers.
Salvia: Reliable, pollinator-friendly blooms that thrive in sunny borders.

How to plant: Prepare a bed with loosened soil and scatter seeds evenly. Press them gently into the soil surface (don’t bury too deeply). Water once, then let fall rains and snow take care of the rest. Adding a thin layer of mulch helps insulate seeds while still allowing light and moisture through.

Come spring, you’ll see hardy seedlings emerging—plants that will grow stronger, flower earlier, and return for years to come. It’s one of the simplest, most rewarding October garden tasks.

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Planting Fall Bulbs for Spring

Thu, 25 Sep 2025 14:27:51 GMT

Timing, Techniques, and Expert Pro Tips for Zone 5

Planting bulbs in fall may feel like extra work at the end of a long season, but trust me—it’s worth it. After our long Northern Illinois winters, nothing lifts the spirit like tulips, daffodils, or crocus pushing through the soil. Here’s how to do it right in Zone 5.

Choose healthy bulbs. Pick firm bulbs with no mushiness or odor.
Timing is everything. Plant in late September through October when soil is 50–55°F.
Pick the right spot. Six hours of sun helps bulbs recharge after blooming.
Prep your soil. Clay-heavy soil in Rockford? Amend with compost or sand for drainage. Dig 10–12 inches deep and create a nest for roots.
Plant at the proper depth. Use the 2–3x rule: plant bulbs two to three times their height. Pointy side up.
Fertilize smart. Organic bulb-tone or bone meal go in the hole; synthetic fertilizer should stay on top. Fertilize again in spring and after flowering.
Design for impact. Plant in clumps or drifts, and layer early, mid, and late bloomers for waves of color.
Protect from critters. Use chicken wire over tulip plantings; choose daffodils or alliums to deter squirrels.
Mulch and mark. Add 2–3 inches of mulch for insulation, and label your plantings.
Water in well. One deep soak helps settle bulbs and jump-start root growth.

Pro tip: Hide bulb foliage by planting them where hostas, nepeta, or other early perennials will cover the yellowing leaves in spring.

Want to see exactly how Michelle plants bulbs in her own Zone 5 garden? Watch the step-by-step video on planting fall bulbs here:

�� Planting Fall Bulbs with Gardening TLC

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Tips on Pumpkin Carving and How to Make Your Creations Last

Tue, 23 Sep 2025 18:22:59 GMT

Keeping Your Pumpkins Fresh and Fun in Illinois Zone 5

Pumpkins are everywhere this time of year—on porches, in planters, and glowing on Halloween night. But if you’ve ever had your masterpiece collapse after only a day or two, you know the struggle. Here are a few expert tips to keep your pumpkin creations looking their best in our cool, often damp Illinois Zone 5 fall weather:

Pick firm, heavy pumpkins with strong stems and no soft spots.
Carve when it’s cool—our chilly nights help preserve them.
Scoop thoroughly, scraping sides until only thin walls remain.
Spray carved areas with a bleach or vinegar solution to slow mold.
Seal edges with petroleum jelly to prevent shriveling.
Bring them inside on frosty nights to avoid sudden collapse.

Fun idea: carve leaves, stars, or polka dots with a drill for a lantern effect. For kids, skip the knives—paint, markers, or stick-on shapes are safer and just as festive.

And don’t toss all that pumpkin—save some to make pumpkin bread.

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

🌱 Why Fall Is a Great Time to Plant

Fri, 29 Aug 2025 20:03:13 GMT

Set your garden up for spring success with the quiet magic of autumn planting.

When most people think of planting, they picture spring. But smart gardeners know that fall is actually one of the best times of year to get plants in the ground—especially here in Zone 5.

The cooler temps, steady rainfall, and warm soil create ideal conditions for roots to establish before winter. That means less transplant shock, stronger root systems, and better performance come spring. And with fewer pests and diseases hanging around, plants are under less stress, too.

What to Plant in Fall

If it’s hardy in Zone 5, you can probably plant it now. That includes:

Trees and shrubs – Plant them early enough to establish roots before the ground freezes.
Perennials – From hostas and echinacea to coreopsis and salvia, fall planting gives perennials a head start for next year.
Spring-flowering bulbs – Tulips, daffodils, crocus, and alliums go in now for a spectacular spring.
Cool-season veggies – Think lettuce, kale, spinach, and radishes—they thrive in crisp fall air.

Don’t Forget the Prep

Planting in fall is easy, but a few smart tips go a long way:

Water well – Fall may bring rain, but new plants still need consistent moisture while roots are forming.
Mulch – A layer of mulch helps regulate soil temps and protect roots over winter.
Avoid fertilizing – Skip the fertilizer until spring—your plants are focused on root growth, not leafy top growth.

Plant Now, Thank Yourself Later

Fall planting is a quiet investment in your future garden. You might not see much above ground this year, but underground, those roots are working hard—and come spring, you’ll be rewarded with healthier, stronger, earlier growth.

�� Thinking of planting this fall? Come see us for fresh stock and expert help on selecting the right perennials, trees, and bulbs for your space.

�� The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

🪻 Dividing Perennials

Fri, 29 Aug 2025 19:07:14 GMT

When, Why, and How to Multiply Your Garden's Beauty

Fall is the perfect time to get hands-on in the garden—and one of the most impactful tasks you can tackle right now is dividing perennials. Whether you’ve got a hosta that’s grown too large, a clump of irises in need of breathing room, or daylilies that have stopped blooming their best, division is a gardener’s best friend.

In Northern Illinois (Zone 5), early fall offers ideal conditions: cooler air, warm soil, and more predictable rainfall. And yes—it’s absolutely okay if you missed the traditional spring window. With the right technique, you can divide and transplant well into the fall season.

�� Why Divide Perennials?

Perennials are living investments that expand with time. But just like anything that outgrows its space, they need a little maintenance to keep thriving.

Improve health and vigor: Overcrowded plants compete for nutrients and water, often resulting in smaller blooms and weaker foliage.
Increase blooms: Many perennials, including irises and daylilies, bloom more after being divided.
Rejuvenate older plants: Plants like astilbe and hosta benefit from being reset every few years.
Fill in bare spots: Turn one plant into three or more by dividing and relocating them around your garden—or share with friends!

��‍�� How to Know It’s Time to Divide

If your perennial clump is blooming less, looking tired, or forming a “doughnut” shape (where growth is strongest around the outer ring), it’s time to divide. Fall-blooming perennials should be divided in spring, but spring and summer bloomers can be safely tackled now.

Look for:

Sparse blooms or center die-out
Signs of overcrowding
Roots growing out of the ground or competing with nearby plants

��️ Step-by-Step Division Tips

1. Prep the Day Before: Water deeply the night before to loosen soil and reduce stress. If it hasn’t rained recently, this step is key.

2. Dig Carefully: Choose a cloudy or cool day if possible. Use a sharp spade or shovel and dig around the perimeter of the plant, preserving as much of the root system as you can. Lift the plant gently out of the ground.

3. Split Thoughtfully: Use your shovel, knife, or even hands to divide the root ball into smaller sections. Each division should have healthy roots and growing points (foliage or buds).

Hostas: Can be cut into halves or quarters with a spade.
Irises: Trim foliage to 4–6” stubs and break off damaged rhizomes.
Daylilies: Pull apart clumps and trim foliage back by half.

4. Clean Before Replanting: Remove weeds, dead roots, and damaged foliage. Never replant anything infested with weeds or disease.

5. Replant Promptly: Dig a new hole slightly wider than the root ball. Place the division at the same depth it was growing before. Water in well and mulch lightly.

6. Hold the Fertilizer: Give your plant a few weeks to establish before feeding. Too much too soon can overwhelm stressed roots.

�� Gardener's Tip: Sharp Tools Make a Big Difference

Keep a dedicated, sharp shovel on hand for divisions. It reduces effort and causes less root damage. If you’ve never sharpened your shovel, it’s worth learning!

�� Want to See Division in Action?

Michelle walks you through everything—from lifting hostas to prepping iris rhizomes and replanting clean divisions. It’s full of practical, real-world gardening advice for anyone tackling perennial divisions this fall.

�� Watch the video on YouTube

�� Wrap-Up

Dividing perennials might sound intimidating, but once you get the hang of it, it becomes one of the most satisfying fall tasks. It’s a great way to refresh your beds, propagate your favorites, and prepare your garden for even more beauty next year.

So grab your sharp spade and get started—you’ll thank yourself come spring!

🌸 Planting Iris in Fall: Your Guide to Strong Spring Blooms

Fri, 29 Aug 2025 17:44:21 GMT

�� Planting Iris in Fall: Your Guide to Strong Spring Blooms

Bearded iris might not look like much when they first arrive, but once they’re in the ground? They’re magic. Elegant, reliable, and shockingly low-maintenance, these showstoppers are a must-have for every perennial lover—especially if you want your garden to come alive in early spring.

Whether you’re planting new rhizomes or dividing old clumps, early fall is prime time in Zone 5. Here’s how to get started (and what not to do).

��️ When to Plant Iris

Timing is everything. Iris should be planted 6 weeks before your area’s first expected hard frost. In Rockford (Zone 5), that’s usually around mid-October, so aim to have them planted by early September.

This gives roots time to establish before the ground freezes, ensuring strong growth and blooms next spring.

�� Bonus: Re-Blooming Iris

Some varieties will bloom again in the fall—but only if conditions are right.

Water them regularly in dry weather (don’t let them go more than 3 weeks without).
After spring blooms fade, cut back the stalks and fertilize with a low-nitrogen mix like 6-10-10.

The reward? A second flush of flowers when everything else is fading.

�� Wrap-Up

Iris are timeless perennials that reward you for years with their striking blooms—if you plant them right. Fall is the perfect time to get them in the ground, whether you're adding new varieties or refreshing old clumps. A little effort now means a stunning payoff in spring.

�� Want expert tips on timing, planting technique, and choosing the right iris types?
Watch Michelle's full guide on YouTube

��️ Shop Iris & Fall Bulbs at The Landscape Connection

�� 4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
�� www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

How to Get the Most Out of Your Fall Mums

Thu, 28 Aug 2025 18:21:54 GMT

Tips for Gardeners in Zone 5 and Beyond

There’s a reason mums are the stars of fall gardens. Whether you grow them from seed, start with nursery pots, or divide mature clumps each year, these hardy perennials offer unbeatable late-season color. But if you want those blooms to last (and maybe even come back next year), it’s all about timing, placement, and care.

Whether you're a seasoned gardener or new to the mum game, here’s how to make the most of these autumn classics.

�� Choose the Right Mums

If you're hoping for mums that return next year, opt for garden mums (aka hardy mums), not florist mums. Garden mums are bred to handle the cold and bounce back each spring in Zone 5 when planted early enough in the season.

✅ Florist mums = grown for indoor use and short-term beauty
✅ Garden mums = cold-hardy perennials if planted early

�� Plant Early for Perennial Success

Timing is everything! If you’re planting mums in the ground, the earlier the better. Aim for late August to early September so they have at least 6 weeks to establish roots before frost.

�� Plant in full sun
�� Use well-draining soil
�� Amend soil with compost for added nutrients
�� Water deeply after planting, then regularly until frost

Mums that overwinter successfully often come back bigger and bloom even more profusely the next year.

❄️ Overwintering Tips

For mums in pots:

Move them to an unheated garage or cold frame before the ground freezes.
Water sparingly through winter—just enough to prevent drying out.

For mums in the ground:

Add 3–4 inches of mulch after the ground has frozen to help insulate roots.
Leave the top growth intact through winter to help trap snow and offer protection.

�� Want More on Mums?

We’ve already written two detailed guides:

Bookmark those if you’re looking for advice on mum placement, care during heatwaves, or how to divide mums year after year.

�� Final Thought

Mums are more than a decorative fall moment—they’re a long-lasting part of your perennial toolkit when handled right. Start early, plant smart, and give them a bit of love. You’ll be rewarded with layers of color well into the season (and maybe even next year).

Grow Like a Pro: Your Guide to Homegrown Mums 🌼

Mon, 18 Aug 2025 20:09:28 GMT

Grow Like a Pro: Your Guide to Homegrown Mums ��

Chrysanthemums—aka “mums”—are one of fall’s biggest showstoppers. But did you know you can grow your own mums from seeds or cuttings and enjoy the process from start to full bloom?

Whether you're planning ahead for next season or just curious about how those gorgeous fall blooms get their start, we’ve got all the essentials for growing mums in Zone 5—from planting to pinching.

Start Early, Reap Later

If you're growing from seed or cutting, start indoors in late winter or early spring. Mums need a long growing season, so give them a head start under lights or in a warm window.

Once the danger of frost has passed, transplant outdoors into rich, well-draining soil in a sunny location. Mums love full sun—6 hours minimum!

Feed & Water With Purpose

Mums are hungry, thirsty plants—but they hate soggy feet.

Use a balanced fertilizer every 2–3 weeks until flower buds appear.

Water deeply and consistently, aiming for the soil (not the leaves!) and mulch to conserve moisture—especially during August heatwaves.

Know When to Plant for Fall Blooms

If you’re starting with young nursery plants, transplant them by early summer to allow time for root establishment before blooming. Planting too late often means fewer flowers or poor overwintering.

Let Your Garden Shine, Season After Season

Growing mums from scratch takes patience, but it’s worth every pinch when your yard explodes with color each fall. From seed tr ays to full bloom, there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of homegrown beauty.

�� Want help choosing varieties or timing your garden for fall blooms?

Come see us—we’d love to chat mums with you.

�� The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Mum Magic – Tips to Keep Your Fall Mums Looking Great

Sat, 19 Jul 2025 16:17:28 GMT

Mum Magic – Tips to Keep Your Fall Mums Looking Great

Autumn isn’t complete without mums—but how do you keep them blooming longer? Whether you’re decorating your porch or planting them in your garden beds, these tips will help your mums thrive through late-season heat and chilly nights.

�� Want mums that wow?

Visit The Landscape Connection for fresh fall plants and even more pro tips to make the season spectacular.

�� The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Zinnia Facts for Your Summer Garden

Sat, 19 Jul 2025 16:04:16 GMT

Did You Know? Zinnia Facts for Your Summer Garden

Did you know zinnias are more than just burst-of-color flowers? These summer garden rockstars are easy to grow, irresistible to pollinators, and perfect for cut flower arrangements. Here’s why zinnias deserve a spot in your Zone 5 garden:

�� Zinnia Superpowers

Sun & Heat Champions

Native to Mexico, zinnias thrive in full sun and dry heat—perfect for Zone 5 summer gardens.

Pollinator Magnets

Bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds can’t resist zinnias.

No Blue? No Problem

Zinnias come in every color except blue, from fiery reds to soft pastels.

Repeat Bloomers

Cut them regularly and they’ll reward you with even more flowers all season long.

Deer-Resistant & Easy-Care

Once established, zinnias are drought-tolerant and usually left alone by deer.

Zinnias are the ultimate garden multitaskers—feeding pollinators, adding pops of color, and keeping your vases full all summer. Whether you’re starting from seed or planting transplants, these sun-loving annuals will reward you with nonstop blooms and smiles.

�� Ready to bring more zinnias into your life? Stop by The Landscape Connection for plants, seeds, and tips to get growing.

�� The Landscape Connectio n

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Watering Wisely in the August Heat

Fri, 18 Jul 2025 16:33:26 GMT

Watering Wisely in the August Heat

When the August sun beats down and rain clouds are nowhere to be found, your garden needs you to water smarter—not harder. Whether you’re caring for potted annuals or deep-rooted trees, mastering the art of watering can make the difference between stressed, struggling plants and a thriving, resilient landscape.

At The Landscape Connection, we know northern Illinois summers can be brutal, but with these tips, you’ll keep your garden hydrated, happy, and beautiful all season long.

�� Tips for Efficient Watering

✅ Water deeply and less often

Shallow watering leads to shallow roots. Instead, water slowly so moisture soaks deep into the soil where roots need it most. This encourages plants to develop stronger, drought-resistant root systems.

✅ Morning is best

Water early in the day to minimize evaporation and give plants a chance to dry before nightfall, reducing the risk of disease.

✅ Know your plants

Pair plants with similar water needs. For example, don’t plant thirsty astilbes next to drought-loving sedums.

✅ Use mulch

A 2–3 inch layer of mulch helps regulate soil temperature, retain moisture, and suppress weeds competing for water.

✅ Containers need more love

Pots dry out faster than garden beds. In August, most potted plants need daily watering—sometimes even twice on hot, windy days.

�� Smart Ways to Conserve Moisture

Group plants with similar water needs.

Collect rainwater for supplemental watering.

Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to deliver water directly to roots with minimal waste.

When in doubt, remember: water deeply, water wisely, and don’t forget the mulch!

Learn more from Michelle’s YouTube video on watering best practices, packed with Zone 5-specific tips for keeping your garden thriving through heatwaves:
�� Watch Best Watering Practices for Your Garden here

�� The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Drying Herbs Like a Pro

Fri, 18 Jul 2025 15:27:24 GMT

Tips for Preserving Your Garden’s Goodness

There’s something magical about stepping into your kitchen in the middle of winter and grabbing a jar of rosemary, oregano, or mint—knowing you grew it yourself. No plastic packaging. No mystery chemicals. Just you, your garden, and a little prep work that made it all possible.

If you’re in Zone 5, like we are, now is the perfect time to start drying your own herbs. And guess what? It’s way easier than you think. Michelle shared her method in a video last year (yes, the one where she reveals her “secret weapon” for drying herbs… spoiler: it involves a coat hanger). Let’s break it down—with a few new tricks and updates for this season.

�� Why Dry Your Own Herbs?

You know exactly how they were grown (organic, pesticide-free, non-GMO… the works).

They cost nothing compared to the little plastic clamshells at the store.

You get to enjoy your garden’s flavors all winter long.

Plus, it feels a little bit like kitchen magic. ✨

✂️ Harvest Smart: Timing Is Everything

Cut herbs in the morning (9–11 AM is prime time) after the dew has dried but before the sun zaps their essential oils.

Use clean, sharp pruners for woody stems (like rosemary) and scissors for tender ones (like basil).

Bundle with a rubber band as you go, and label them—trust us, dried oregano and marjoram look identical later.

Ready to Try It?

Your garden’s bounty deserves to stick around long after summer fades. Whether you’re snipping rosemary for roasted potatoes or sprinkling dried mint into tea, you’ll thank yourself later.

✨ Come see us at The Landscape Connection for more herb growing and drying tips!

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Soak It In: The Natural Power of Our Handcrafted Bath Salts

Tue, 08 Jul 2025 17:04:15 GMT

Soak It In: The Natural Power of Our Handcrafted Bath Salts

Our Spa Collection is all about bringing a little calm into your everyday—and that includes our in-house handcrafted bath salts. We blend each batch right here at The Landscape Connection using Epsom salt, pink Himalayan salt, and our very own homegrown, hand-dried herbs and flowers.

They’re clean, natural, and created with care—because we believe self-care should never come from a factory.

�� Made with Love, Made for You

Every jar or pouch of our bath salts is hand-mixed with intention, using ingredients we’re proud of and herbs we’ve grown ourselves. They’re part of a bigger philosophy here at TLC: that care, comfort, and connection all start at home.

✨ Come explore the Spa Collection in-store and find your perfect scent for relaxation, renewal, or a thoughtful gift.

�� The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

10 Drought-Tolerant Perennials That Love the Heat (and Still Look Fabulous)

Tue, 01 Jul 2025 15:01:57 GMT

10 Drought-Tolerant Perennials That Love the Heat (and Still Look Fabulous)

When summer sends the mercury soaring, it’s tempting to write off flower beds until cooler weather returns. But not all plants melt in the heat! In fact, there’s a whole group of hardy perennials that crave sunshine, tolerate dry spells, and still deliver long-lasting color and pollinator action—all with minimal fuss.

If you’re gardening in Zone 5 (hello, Midwest!), these sun-worshippers are tough enough to handle hot, dry conditions and keep looking spectacular through it all. Ready to plant smarter—not harder? Here’s your heat-defying lineup:

�� Bonus Tip: Help Your Heat-Lovers Thrive

Want to get the most out of your drought-tolerant perennials? Here’s how:

Mulch matters: A 2–3" layer helps insulate roots and retain moisture. Avoid piling against stems.
Water wisely: Water deeply and less often to encourage deep root growth. Morning is best.
Smart placement: Group drought-tolerant plants together so you’re not overwatering nearby companions.

�� Come See These Tough Beauties in Person

You don’t have to sacrifice beauty for durability. At The Landscape Connection , we carry all these powerhouse perennials and more—ready to thrive in your Zone 5 garden. Stop in and let us help you build a summer-ready, low-maintenance landscape that truly shines.

�� The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Growing and Pruning Clematis: Tips and Tricks for Bold Blooms

Mon, 30 Jun 2025 15:09:54 GMT

Growing and Pruning Clematis: Tips and Tricks for Bold Blooms

There’s something magical about a clematis in full bloom—whether it’s climbing a trellis, spilling over a fence, or bursting with color around your mailbox. But what if yours is just... underwhelming? Stringy growth, tiny flowers, and a general “meh” feeling? Don’t worry—you’re not the only one asking, “Where are my big, beautiful blooms?”

Let’s get into the why and how so you can get the vibrant clematis show you’re dreaming of.

What Clematis Really Wants

Clematis can be a little particular, but once it’s settled in, it’s a star performer. Here's what it takes:

Sun-loving top, shade-loving roots: Aim for at least 6 hours of sunlight on the vine, but keep the roots cool and shaded. A thick layer of mulch or a few leafy perennials at the base can help regulate temperature.
Well-drained soil: These plants hate “wet feet.” If your soil leans toward heavy clay, mix in some compost or other organic matter to improve drainage.
Patience: There's a garden saying—“First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap.” Give it time!

The Secret Sauce: Pruning by Group

Here’s where things get confusing—but it doesn’t have to be. Clematis fall into three pruning groups. Once you know which group your plant belongs to, you’re golden:

Group 1: Spring bloomers (old wood)
These bloom on last year’s stems. Prune them after they flower—just a light trim to shape.
Group 2: Repeat bloomers (old + new wood)
These bloom twice—spring and again later. In early spring, trim dead wood and tidy it up. After the first round of blooms, you can give it a second haircut.
Group 3: Summer/Fall bloomers (new wood)
These are the low-maintenance types. Cut them back to about 12–18 inches in late winter or early spring.

Not sure what group you’ve got? Wait for it to bloom before you prune—then you won’t risk cutting off your flower buds.

Bottom Line: Don’t Give Up!

Clematis takes a little time and care, but once you’ve got it figured out, it’s one of the most rewarding plants you can grow. And if your vine looks like it’s sulking this year, give it some grace. With the right sun, soil, support, and a pruning plan, it’ll be blooming like a rockstar before you know it.

Combatting Powdery Mildew: Prevention & Treatment Guide

Mon, 30 Jun 2025 14:24:07 GMT

Combatting Powdery Mildew: Prevention & Treatment Guide

�� Combatting Powdery Mildew: Prevention & Treatment Guide

Powdery mildew—that white, flour-like dusting on your plants—isn’t just unsightly. It weakens leaves, hinders flowering, and, if ignored, spreads quickly through your garden. But with the right approach, you can keep this common Illinois garden problem under control.

�� What Does Powdery Mildew Look Like?

White or gray powdery spots on leaves, stems, or fruit

Typically begins on lower or shaded foliage

Leaves may yellow, curl, dry out, or fall off prematurely

��️ How to Prevent It

Powdery mildew thrives in shady, humid conditions. Your best defense? A garden with great air circulation and early action.

✅ Increase Airflow & Light

Prune overgrown areas

Space plants properly

Avoid crowding tall perennials like phlox and bee balm

✅ Water Early, Not Late

Always water at the base in the morning

Avoid wetting foliage in the evening

✅ Choose Resistant Varieties

Look for mildew-resistant versions of:

Cucumbers and squash

Grapes and zinnias

Roses and lilacs

✅ Clean Up Debris

Remove fallen leaves and any infected material—especially at the end of the season—to reduce overwintering spores.

�� When to Use Fungicides

Chemical fungicides should be your last resort. If using, apply early in the morning and follow the label closely. Organic options are often just as effective when used preventatively.

�� Keep It from Coming Back

Inspect plants weekly

Thin foliage where necessary

Apply safe sprays at the first sign of mildew

Continue treatments during hot, humid stretches in June and July

�� Why This Matters in Zone 5

Midwestern summers are a powdery mildew playground. Warm days + humid nights = ideal conditions for spread. Starting these habits early—before the mildew gets a grip—means you’ll keep your cucumbers producing, your roses blooming, and your garden looking fresh.

Visit The Landscape Connection for:

�� Organic remedies

�� Resistant plant varieties

�� Local advice tailored to Zone 5 gardening

Around the Garden in July: Your Mid-Season Guide

Thu, 26 Jun 2025 19:43:28 GMT

�� Around the Garden in July: Your Mid-Season Guide

July in Illinois (Zone 5) is that lush, buzzing midpoint where everything is growing fast—and you're starting to reap the rewards. But it's also when the heat kicks in, pests start to party, and your garden needs some love to stay productive. Based on Gardening Month by Month and my own experience, here’s your smart checklist to stay ahead.

�� July Garden Checklist

Water deeply & consistently: Aim for 1–2" of water per week, preferably in the early morning. Mulch to retain moisture and protect roots from heat.

Harvest regularly: Pick beans, tomatoes, zucchini, cucumbers, herbs, and berries as soon as they’re ready. This keeps plants productive and prevents waste.

Deadhead spent blooms: Encourage more flowers on roses, phlox, coneflowers, and clematis.

Mulch and weed: Don’t let weeds steal nutrients. Top up mulch to conserve water and control growth.

Succession sow: There’s still time to tuck in fast-maturing crops like lettuce, radishes, bush beans, or even fall carrots.

Monitor for pests & disease: Japanese beetles, aphids, and powdery mildew peak in July—catch issues early to avoid major damage.

Support your growers: Stake tomatoes and tall flowers. Tie up flopping plants before storms do more harm.

Pinch & prune: Trim herbs to prevent flowering. Shape annuals and perennials for better blooms and airflow.

Plan for fall: Start dreaming about bulbs, cool-season veggies, and fall color. July is the perfect time to order ahead.

Why July Matters

Mid-summer is a balancing act: nurturing what’s thriving, refreshing what’s tired, and planning what’s next. A few thoughtful actions now will make the difference between a garden that fades too soon—and one that keeps giving through fall.

Visit TLC this month for fresh plants, organic fertilizers, fall prep supplies, and plenty of seasonal inspiration. Let’s keep growing!

Light with Intention: Hand-Poured Soy Candles from Our Spa Collection

Wed, 18 Jun 2025 20:16:36 GMT

Light with Intention: Hand-Poured Soy Candles from Our Spa Collection

At The Landscape Connection, everything we create is rooted in care—and our hand-poured candle line is no exception. As part of our Spa Collection’s Summer Series, our in-house candles are crafted with 100% soy wax, cotton wicks, and clean, intentional fragrances designed to elevate your everyday.

But these candles aren’t just lovely to look at. They’re part of a growing self-care movement that reconnects us with quiet, calm, and balance.

�� Aromatherapy That Supports Your Mood

Each candle in our Spa Collection is thoughtfully scented to offer benefits beyond fragrance. We choose clean-burning, essential-oil-inspired scents that support:

Better sleep with lavender and chamomile blends

Focus and clarity with citrus or eucalyptus

Emotional calm with warm woods, herbs, and florals

Whether you light one while soaking in the tub, meditating, journaling, or simply doing nothing at all—your body responds to scent.

✨ Visit us in-store to explore the full Summer Series from our Spa Collection, and discover the scent that speaks to you.

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

The Science of Scent

Wed, 18 Jun 2025 20:16:23 GMT

Behind the Scenes of Our Hand-Poured Candles

Candles may look simple, but making one that burns cleanly, smells amazing, and holds up beautifully over time is anything but. It’s not just art—it’s chemistry.

Here at The Landscape Connection, we hand-pour every candle in small batches as part of our Spa Collection, paying attention to every detail of the process—from wax temperature to mixing time to how the jar is prepared. And when you light one, you're not just enjoying the glow—you're experiencing the result of a carefully controlled, intentional craft.

Let’s take a peek behind the scenes.

�� It Starts With Chemistry

Making candles that burn clean and smell true begins with understanding the science of wax and fragrance.

We use 100% soy wax, which is natural, renewable, and known for its long, clean burn. But soy wax is a little more temperamental than paraffin—temperature control is everything.

We heat the wax to a precise temperature before we add fragrance. If it’s too hot, the essential oils can “burn off,” losing their potency and therapeutic benefits. If it’s too cool, the oils won’t bind properly, leaving the candle underwhelming or uneven in scent.

�� Fragrance Fusion Matters

We mix our essential oil blends into the wax at a specific temperature window that optimizes absorption without degrading the scent. That’s what ensures your candle:

Burns evenly

Smells true from top to bottom

Doesn’t develop weird cold or hot scent throw issues

And we don’t just dump and pour—we mix for a specific amount of time to guarantee that the oils fully disperse into the wax. This blending time helps lock in consistent scent across the entire candle, not just the top half.

�� Why Pouring Temperature Is Key

The moment we pour is just as important as the mix. If the wax is too hot, it can leave bubbles, frosting, or weird lines. If it’s too cool, it won’t set up properly and might develop sinkholes or uneven surfaces.

We pour at a calculated temperature range that allows the wax to settle slowly, set up smoothly, and fully cure over time—no shortcuts here.

��️ We Even Preheat Our Glassware

Here’s a detail you won’t find in mass-produced candles: we pre-warm our glass votives before pouring. Why?

If you pour warm wax into a cold glass jar, the sudden temperature shift can cause the wax to pull away from the sides, leaving gaps or creating visual imperfections.

By preheating the glass, we help the wax adhere smoothly and cool evenly—ensuring a cleaner burn and a more beautiful finished product.

�� More Than a Candle

When you buy a candle from our Spa Collection, you’re not just getting fragrance in a jar. You’re getting a candle that was:

Carefully formulated and poured in-house

Mixed with intentional temperature and timing

Designed to deliver maximum scent performance

Poured into prepped glass to reduce imperfections

Created with love, chemistry, and craftsmanship

So when you light it, you’re not just creating ambiance—you’re connecting to something made with care and precision, start to finish.

✨ Come experience the difference for yourself in-store. We’re proud to show you the heart—and science—behind every candle we pour.

The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Let’s Grow Up: Vertical Growing in the Vegetable Garden

Tue, 03 Jun 2025 19:15:02 GMT

Let’s Grow Up: Vertical Growing in the Vegetable Garden

If you’ve ever wished for more room to grow your own food but felt limited by space, I have three words for you: Let’s. Grow. Up.

Vertical gardening isn’t just a clever trend—it’s a game changer, especially for Zone 5 gardeners like us who deal with short growing seasons and unpredictable weather. Whether you're working with a raised bed, a small backyard, or a patio container garden, going vertical can help you maximize space, improve plant health, and boost your harvest.

Why Vertical Gardening Works

Vertical gardening is all about training your plants to grow up instead of out. When you guide vegetables to climb, you:

Save space (perfect for small gardens or urban patios)

Increase air circulation (less chance of mildew and pests)

Make harvesting easier (no bending and digging through vines)

Add visual interest with height, color, and texture

Plus, there’s just something beautiful about a garden that reaches for the sky—it feels alive and abundant.

Creative Vertical Supports

You don’t need fancy equipment to grow vertically. Try:

Cattle panels bent into arches (hello, garden tunnels!)

Wooden A-frame trellises or teepees made from branches

Fencing or lattice along the sides of raised beds

Tomato cages or wire obelisks

Upcycled ladders, pallets, or even old crib sides—if it’s sturdy, it can grow

Just make sure whatever you use can support the weight of mature plants and fruit.

A Few Pro Tips for Success

Start with healthy transplants or direct seed early, depending on the plant.

Use zip ties, twine, or plant clips to gently train vines as they grow.

Water deeply and mulch below to retain moisture—vertical gardens can dry out faster.

Fertilize regularly to keep fast growers happy.

Watch for shadows—tall structures can block sun from lower plants, so plan layout wisely.

Planting for Pollinators: How to Grow a Garden That Gives Back

Sat, 31 May 2025 21:04:28 GMT

Planting for Pollinators: How to Grow a Garden That Gives Back

Every June, gardeners across the country pause to celebrate National Pollinator Week—and this year, from June 16–22, it’s our chance to honor the tiny workers that make our gardens bloom: bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, moths, and more.

At TLC here in Zone 5 Illinois, we know that planting for pollinators isn’t just a feel-good project—it’s a vital one. Nearly 90% of flowering plants depend on pollinators to reproduce, including many of the fruits, veggies, and herbs we enjoy in our own backyards. If you’ve ever sipped mint tea, crunched into a juicy apple, or snipped basil for pasta night, you’ve got pollinators to thank!

So how do you create a garden that actually works for pollinators—and not just looks pretty? Let’s dig into it.

1. Choose Native Plants First

Pollinators have evolved alongside native plants, making them the most nourishing and accessible source of nectar and pollen. In Illinois, favorites include:

Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Bee balm (Monarda)

Wild bergamot

Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa and Asclepias incarnata) for monarch butterflies

Blazing star (Liatris)

These beauties not only thrive in our climate, but they bloom at different times throughout the season, keeping your garden buzzing spring through fall.

4. Add Host Plants, Not Just Nectar Plants

It's easy to focus on nectar-rich blooms, but many pollinators (like butterflies) need specific host plants to lay their eggs. Monarchs need milkweed. Black swallowtails love parsley, fennel, and dill. Don’t deadhead or over-tidy these areas—let nature do her thing.

5. Make a Bee Bath

Even pollinators need a drink. A shallow dish with stones for perching, filled with fresh water, creates a safe and simple watering hole. Place it in a sunny, sheltered spot near your blooms and refresh it every few days.

6. Keep It Wild and Welcoming

Dead plant stems, brush piles, and even small patches of bare ground provide shelter for solitary bees and butterflies. Resist the urge to tidy everything up—your pollinator guests will thank you.

🌿 Perennial Shuffles: Divide, Move, and Make Room 🌿

Tue, 22 Apr 2025 20:05:22 GMT

�� Perennial Shuffles: Divide, Move, and Make Room ��

May is one of my favorite times to rethink the garden—especially the perennial beds. Plants are waking up, the weather is perfect for digging, and you can really reshape your space before summer hits. Dividing and moving perennials isn’t just practical—it’s deeply satisfying. It’s like rearranging furniture and realizing your room suddenly works better.

�� Why Divide?

Over time, many perennials get too crowded. You’ll see fewer blooms, more flopping, or bare centers. Dividing helps refresh the plant, encourage better flowering, and gives you free plants to use somewhere else (or share with a friend). Hostas, daylilies, coneflowers, and more benefit from a split every few years.

�� Moving What’s Not Working

We’ve all done it—planted something in the wrong spot. Maybe it’s too shady, too wet, or just not thriving. Don’t let guilt keep it there. May is the time to dig it up, give it a better home, and move on. Your garden should bring you joy, not frustration.

➕ Make Room for What’s New

Let’s be honest: we’re all bringing home new plants in May. Creating space ahead of time helps you make better choices and avoid impulse overcrowding (which I still do, by the way). Use this time to add compost, fluff the soil, and get everything ready.

�� Pro Tips for Happy Transplants

Water well before and after you move a plant

Try to keep the root ball as intact as possible

Replant at the same depth and mulch around the base

Don’t forget to label if you’re moving something dormant!

�� Final thought? Don’t overthink it. Gardening is a living, growing process. If you shift things around and they thrive—great. If not, try again. The shuffle is part of the magic.

🌼 The Beauty Boost: Filling Containers and Beds with Annuals 🌼

Tue, 22 Apr 2025 19:59:15 GMT

�� The Beauty Boost: Filling Containers and Beds with Annuals ��

Annuals are the instant-gratification stars of the gardening world. Unlike perennials, which take time to settle in, annuals go big, fast—bursting with color and life from the moment they’re planted. If you want a vibrant, feel-good garden that looks amazing from the curb (or your coffee chair), annuals are where it’s at.

�� Why I Love Annuals

There’s a freedom with annuals that I don’t feel with other plants. You can switch up your style every year, try bold new color combos, or keep it soft and serene. They don’t come back next season—so there’s no pressure to get it “perfect.” It’s pure creative joy.

��The Formula: Thrillers, Fillers, and Spillers

This tried-and-true method for container planting really works:

Thrillers: Tall, eye-catching focal points like salvias or ornamental grasses

Fillers: Mounding plants like petunias or begonias that fill the middle

Spillers: Trailing plants like sweet potato vine or calibrachoa that tumble over the edge

In beds, I follow the same rule, just scaled up. Mix heights and textures, and use color to draw the eye along a path or frame a space.

☀️ Match the Plant to the Place

Light is everything. A sun-loving annual in the shade won’t bloom like you want it to, and shade-lovers in full sun will fry. Check the tag, ask a pro, or experiment a little. I’ve learned the hard way—plants tell you when they’re unhappy.

�� Michelle’s Tip

I always buy a few “bonus” annuals I didn’t plan for. There’s something special about walking through the greenhouse and letting a color or bloom call out to you. Sometimes the best combinations happen by accident.

�� In short? Annuals are the best way to refresh, revive, and totally reinvent your garden in a single afternoon. Have fun with it—and don’t be afraid to get playful.

🍅 Tomatoes in the Ground: Why Mid-May is Prime Time in Zone 5 🍅

Tue, 22 Apr 2025 19:30:39 GMT

�� Tomatoes in the Ground: Why Mid-

May is Prime Time In Zone 5 ��

If you’ve ever rushed to plant tomatoes the second the snow melts, you’re not alone. It’s tempting—especially after a long Zone 5 winter—to get those baby plants in the ground early. But when it comes to tomatoes, patience pays off. Late-May is what I call the “sweet spot”—the time when conditions finally line up to give your tomatoes the best chance to thrive.

��️ The Soil Has to Be Ready

Tomatoes are heat-lovers, and planting them too early can lead to cold stress and stunted growth. What we’re really waiting for is soil temperature—not just air temp. The magic number is around 60°F or warmer at root level. You can test this with a soil thermometer, but I also go by feel: if the nights are staying above 50°F consistently, and the days are sunny and warm, it’s probably time.

�� Strong Starts Mean Strong Plants

When planted at the right time, tomatoes can settle in quickly and spend their energy growing instead of surviving. I like to plant deep, burying part of the stem to encourage more root growth, and then add a layer of mulch around the base to hold in warmth and moisture. Support them right away with cages or stakes—don’t wait until they’ve flopped over!

�� Timing Prevents Pests and Disease

Planting when the soil is still too cold can delay growth, making your tomatoes more vulnerable to early blight, aphids, or root rot. On the flip side, waiting until later in May gives your plants a fighting chance against pests by encouraging faster, more vigorous growth from the start.

�� Final Tip: Harden Off!

If you’ve been growing your starts indoors or buying them from a greenhouse, don’t forget to harden them off—gradually introduce them to outdoor conditions over a week. Start with a shady spot and increase their sun exposure each day. You’ll reduce transplant shock and make the adjustment smoother.

�� Bottom line? Waiting until later in May isn’t late—it’s smart. When your tomatoes hit warm soil, they’ll thank you by growing faster, flowering sooner, and producing bigger harvests. Trust the timing—and you’ll reap the rewards.

🌾 Mulch Madness: Why Your Garden Deserves a Cozy Blanket

Fri, 28 Mar 2025 17:19:05 GMT

Mulch Madness: Why Your Garden Deserves a Cozy Blanket

Think of mulch as the ultimate multitasker in your garden. Not only does it keep your beds looking fresh and polished, but it also works hard behind the scenes—locking in moisture, smothering weeds, and protecting your plants from extreme temperature swings. It’s like giving your garden a cozy blanket and a spa day all at once.

Why Mulch Matters

�� Locks in Moisture
In the blazing August heat, mulch helps slow down evaporation so your plants stay hydrated longer (and you can spend less time hauling the hose around).

�� Weed Control That Actually Works
Mulch creates a barrier that smothers weeds before they can take hold. Fewer weeds = less time spent pulling and more time enjoying your garden.

�� Protects Roots & Improves Soil
By insulating the soil, mulch keeps roots cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Over time, organic mulches also break down and enrich your soil with nutrients.

Pick Your Mulch Personality

✨ Shredded Hardwood

Perfect for perennial beds and around trees and shrubs. It knits together nicely and stays put even on slopes.

✨ Dyed Mulch

Want that bold, just-mulched look? Dyed mulch comes in rich shades of black, brown, and red to make your beds pop.

✨ Natural Mulch

This no-frills option is ideal for veggie gardens and beds where you want a quick boost to soil health as it decomposes.

Michelle’s Mulch Pro-Tips

✔️ Prep Matters
Before mulching, weed thoroughly and clear out old debris. Trust me, you don’t want to lock in any problems under that beautiful new layer.

✔️ The Sweet Spot
Spread mulch about 2–3 inches deep—any thinner won’t do much good, and thicker layers can smother roots or hold too much moisture.

✔️ Keep It Off Stems
Pull mulch back a couple inches from the base of plants and tree trunks to prevent rot and pest problems.

Make Mulch Your Spring Priority

A simple layer of mulch in early spring sets your garden up for success all season long. Plus, it saves water and keeps your plants happier when the summer heat hits.

�� Haven’t mulched yet? No worries—we’ve got you covered. Come see us for bulk mulch or bagged options and get your garden glowing.

�� The Landscape Connection
4472 S. Mulford Rd.
Rockford, IL 61109
(815) 874-8733
www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

🌱 The Dirt on Compost: Breaking It Down

Fri, 28 Mar 2025 15:32:03 GMT

�� The Dirt on Compost: Breaking It Down

If mulch is your garden’s outfit, compost is the skincare routine. And let’s be honest—every thriving garden starts with healthy, well-fed soil.

Adding compost is one of the simplest (and smartest) things you can do to give your plants that happy glow. Not only does it improve soil structure, but it also:

Enhances water retention ��

Fuels beneficial microbes ��

Regulates soil temperature ��️

Supplies slow-release nutrients ��

Helps keep weeds in check ��

Think of it as giving your soil a green smoothie—it’s packed with goodness your plants will love all season long.

Compost 101: Types We Love

�� Yard Waste Compost

Made from leaves, grass clippings, and plant debris. Great for improving texture and aeration in garden beds.

�� Mushroom Compost

A mild, nutrient-rich byproduct of mushroom farming—perfect for revitalizing tired soils.

�� Manure (Cow or Chicken)

Rich in nitrogen! Cow manure is gentle, while chicken manure is stronger and should always be well-aged before use.

�� Land & Sea Compost

A luxurious blend (like Espoma’s Land & Sea) with lobster, kelp, and other marine ingredients. Ideal for boosting garden vitality.

�� Worm Castings (Vermicompost)

Full of gentle nutrients and beneficial microbes—perfect for seed starting or feeding young plants.

Michelle’s Compost Pro-Tips

✔️ Blend It In

Mix compost into garden beds before planting to set the stage for strong roots.

✔️ Top It Off

Use compost as a top dressing for containers or around established plants.

✔️ Amend As You Go

When planting trees, shrubs, or perennials, combine compost with native soil to give them a healthy start.

Ready to Feed Your Garden?

A little compost goes a long way in helping your plants grow stronger, greener, and more productive all season long. Stop by and let’s talk about which type is best for your garden beds.

�� The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd.

Rockford, IL 61109

(815) 874-8733

www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

Growing Clematis

Fri, 01 Apr 2022 19:20:10 GMT

Clematis: All the best tips and tricks

Growing Clematis

For proper care of clematis, clematis vines prefer sunny locations (at least six hours of sun needed for blooming) but the soil should be kept cool. An easy way to accomplish this is by planting some type of ground cover or shallow-rooted perennial plants around the clematis. A 2-inch layer of mulch can also be incorporated to keep the roots cool and moist. Growing clematis vines must be supported in some fashion as well. The type of support system is usually dependent on the variety grown. For instance, poles are acceptable choices for smaller growing clematis vines, which can range anywhere from 2 to 5 feet in height. Arbors may be more suitable for growing larger types, which can get 8 to 12 feet. Most varieties, however, do quite well growing along a trellis or fence.

Clematis plants need plenty of space for adequate air flow as well as a rich, well-draining planting area. You should dig the hole large enough to accommodate the plant, with most recommendations suggesting at least a two foot depth of soil amended with compost prior to planting. It may also help to cut the plant back som e before planting to lessen shock as it adapts to its new environment.

Annual pruning may also be required to keep clematis plants looking their best. Pruning clematis helps plants remain both attractive and full of flowers. The type of clematis vine grown dictates when and how it should be pruned. For example, early spring-blooming varieties should be pruned back as soon as possible following their blooming but before July, as they bud on previous season’s growth. Large flowering types that bloom in mid spring should be cut back to the topmost buds in late winter/early spring. Late-blooming varieties should be pruned back about two or three feet in late winter/early spring.

Before you get started, there are a couple tips for pruning clematis that you should know: Dead or damaged stems may be removed at any time when pruning clematis vines. Damaged plant parts will never be productive, so get rid of them as soon as they are noticed. Know when your clematis blooms. You may want to wait until the second year to prune clematis, especially if it is the large flowering variety. Always prune clematis when flowering is finished.

If you prune clematis immediately after bloom time is finished, you won’t have to worry about removing next year’s flowers. Prune clematis for shape at this time, removing up to one third of the plant, if needed. Avoid removing woody stems, if possible. Clematis pruning groups include those that flower on new growth and those that bloom on last year’s woody stem. Once you’re familiar with the bloom time of your clematis, you will be able to prune the vine before buds begin to develop. When deciding how and when to trim clematis, don’t remove a developing bud. If you see buds developing when pruning clematis vines, you may be pruning at the wrong time. Flowers that bloom in spring grow on old wood. Blooms of this clematis developed during last year’s growing season. Plants in this clematis pruning group should be pruned before the end of July to allow blooms for next year. Pruning clematis vines that flower in summer or fall should be done in early spring, as these flowers are produced on the current year’s growth. Large flowering hybrids may produce a second set of blooms. Deadhead spent flowers for another series of blooms, though they will likely be smaller than the first, as these appear on new growth. When deadheading the first blooms, as much as 12 to 18 inches of stem.

VERBENA: IT GOES WITH EVERYTHING!!!

Fri, 01 Apr 2022 18:31:08 GMT

Love, Love, Love, Verbena!!

Splash color across the garden with this very versatile annual. This beauty comes in a

rainbow of colors and butterflies love to flit from flower to flower for the sweet nectar. Most verbenas are part of a series. We carry some of the Endurascape, Lascar, Tuscany, and Lanai series, which all come from cuttings in our 4.3” pots and our hanging baskets. In flats we carry the Quartz series, and those are grown from seed. What is the difference? Cutting flowers tend to grow larger, and are less prone to powdery mildew. Seed grown verbena are less expensive and might be great for a large project or mass

planting. You will need to deadhead them so they don’t waste energy forming seeds.

When you are putting your containers together verbena has a lot of variety. We carry Green Apple, Dark Violet, Mango Orange, Twister Purple Shades, Pink, Red, Meteor Shower, and Bright Eyes just to name some of them. Most grow somewhere between

8-14” High and 12-16” Wide. Some are upright and some trail.

Do you have an empty spot in your sunny border bed? An upright verbena is perfect.

Ok...so now you know a little about verbena...Let’s talk about what to do with it. If you are looking for great companions in a pot your going to make up, try pairing it with a Calibrachoa in a contrasting color (like red and dark purple) or a complementary color (like lavender and yellow) then add a sedge or cypress as your tall thriller. Verbena can also be used as a thriller or a spiller depending on which variety you choose. A great hanging basket combo is a red verbena with a royal velvet Supertunia. This will look good all season and the 2 contrast excellently together. As I stated above, verbena is not only great in a pot, but grows well in the ground too. Upright types very rarely get above 14”. Depending on the scale of your garden, most will do just fine near the front of the border creating a colorful edge, or cluster them and repeat the color throughout the bed.

There’s a few things I should tell you about this great plant so you can have the biggest flowers and vigorous growing plants. They absolutely need to have plenty of sun-at least 6 hours. Try and skimp on that sun and you will have weak plants and very few flowers. Whether in pots or in the ground, they need excellent drainage. The next thing to avoid is the dreaded

homeowners “drought stress.” Yes, you know I’m talking to you….when you let the soil dry out completely between waterings. This will actually set back blooming by 1-3 weeks. When it’s hot you may need to water daily. Now on the flipside they can

actually rot in soggy soil that does not drain.

Maybe you have grown them before and have not had lots of flowers or long gaps between flowering. There are a couple of

reasons verbena will not flower in summer: humidity and hot nights. Temperatures above 65 degrees overnight slow them down so there aren't as many blooms. Cool nights will help build energy for the next day. I know you can’t do much about the weather, but I do know the Endurascape series is a lot more heat-tolerant. You don’t have to deadhead verbena, but it will help most flower better if you do. If you bought your verbena in flats vs. in a single pot it was probably grown from seed and you will need to snip off the spent blooms so energy is spent producing more flowers not seeds. Sometimes the flower head with buds look similar to the spent flower heads. One will feel empty and one will feel plump.

You can deadhead 2 ways.

Cut off each individual flower...not my idea of a good time, but go for it...or

2. (My preferred method) grab a hunk of it and cut off a 1/3 of it after the first flush of blooms are done.

Verbena also need regular fertilizer feeding. I feed mine every 2 weeks with miracle grow. Pale green leaves and slower

flowering are generally signs that you need to feed your verbena. The other common problem that verbena can have is the dreaded powdery mildew. Spores are carried by the wind, so dry weather, shade, and moderate temperatures create ideal growing conditions for it. How do you deal with it? Well you can be pro-active and spray your verbena with the old tried and true baking soda recipe.

(1 gallon water, 1 tsp. Ivory Soap, 1 tsp. baking soda) Mix it up, put in a spray bottle. Shake before using and spray your plants every week, making sure to get the bottoms of the leaves too. Now for this to work you have to start doing this BEFORE

you get powdery mildew. If you develop powdery mildew, you can manage it, but not cure it. Cut off the affected stems cleaning your cutters between cuts. Toss it in the trash, not the compost pile. You can treat with Neem oil, or a commercial fungicide. And the last trick...overhead watering of Verbena. This can actually keep powdery mildew from starting and spreading. Remember the spores are spread by wind, not water, so spraying from above increases the humidity so spores have a less favorable environment. Water by mid-morning so leaves have a chance to dry.

So bring out the best in your verbena with these cultural practices and you will have loads of colorful flowers to fill your containers and borders. Who knew I could write a whole page about one flower...hahaha!

Pro-Tip: Don’t forget to turn hanging baskets of verbena everyday so they grow and flower evenly.

Tomatoes 101

Tue, 02 Mar 2021 16:50:53 GMT

How to grow the best tomatoes ever!

Tomatoes are the crown jewel of the summer garden—sweet, sun-ripened, and worth every bit of fuss. But let’s be honest… they can also be a little dramatic. ��

If you’ve ever had tomatoes crack, stop setting fruit, or sulk in the heat, don’t give up! Here’s how to grow the best crop yet:

�� Water Consistently (But Not Too Much)

Tomatoes hate extremes. In containers? Water daily—keep the soil moist but not soggy.

�� Feed for Flavor

Once your first fruits reach golf ball size, side dress with a balanced fertilizer (3 TBSP per plant). Repeat every 3 weeks—this is like giving your tomatoes their favorite snack.

�� Harvest Like a Pro

Pick tomatoes as soon as they blush with a healthy pink glow. Let them ripen indoors (70–75°F) for perfect flavor. Pro tip: harvesting often keeps plants productive.

❄️ Beat the Fall Frost

Before the first killing frost, pick all green fruit. Wrap them individually in paper and store at 60°F—they’ll ripen gradually.

✨ Michelle’s Tip: Tomatoes don’t forgive neglect. A little love every week gives you that unforgettable burst of garden-fresh flavor.

�� The Landscape Connection

4472 S. Mulford Rd. | Rockford, IL

(815) 874-8733 | www.TheLandscapeConnection.net

My First Blog Post

Tue, 12 Sep 2017 07:45:02 GMT

It's official, I have a blog and I know how to use it.

I have finally decided to take the plunge and add a blog to my site. I always wanted an easy way to share information with visitors and I'm super excited to start this journey. Keep coming back to my site and check for updates right here on the blog.